New Tricks

1 Photo

by Tom Lee
on Friday, June 17, 2011 12:00 AM

There was nothing inherently wrong with Racks: relaxed ambiance, reasonable prices and more pool tables than you could shake a cue at are nothing to complain about. For the owners, however, the name just didn't say enough for their kitchen. After all, when one hears the word "racks", the first thing that pops into your mind certainly is not, "Sounds like a great place for dinner."

So they've rebranded. Henceforth, their location on JinXian Road shall be known as Masse Bistro & Bar. The decoration is the same: the exposed concrete walls still enclose numerous pool tables and casual seating. Spread over the fifth and sixth floors, one enters through the bar area and ascends a flight of stairs to access the more food-centric top level, where a glass façade allows for a pleasant view of the surrounding neighborhood. The main difference is the food menu, which, according to co-owner Chris, has expanded by about 30 percent.

That's not to say they've thrown the baby out with the bathwater. Popular choices from the previous menu retain a place on the new one, including the Chili con Carne (RMB58) and the Thai Basil Beef Rice (RMB48). In addition to these come other items like the Hainan Chicken Rice (RMB68) and the spicy rack of Pork Ribs (RMB108). There's no particular cuisine on display here; just a mix of dishes that satisfy as everyday eats.

Eager to encourage their food followers, Masse has assembled special deals throughout the week, from two-for-one streaks on Tuesdays to Monday's burger and beer deal. Catering for the late-night crowd, the kitchen stays open from 11am to well past midnight.

There's no denying that the bar element still far overshadows the bistro aspect. Even the name change, which suggests informal French fare, is actually still related to pool terminology - "massé" is a particular technique used to hit the ball, generally for tricks shots rather than actual play, greatly altering the normal pace and spin of the ball. While Massé may have added a new trick to its repertoire, it's not revolutionized its concept, just tweaked it.

Rebranded Massé offers more food for hungry patrons to accompany their pool playing.