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Down ‘nd Dirty
by Ruth Waldron
on Friday, December 24, 2010 12:00 AM
Do you like your burgers fat and juicy, and your nachos piled high with melted cheese, beef and creamy guacamole? You bet? Then, Piro is the place to go for your hit of "down ‘nd dirty" American cooking, according to Manager Charles Zeng.
Zeng comes to Shanghai from New York City, bringing with him his love of the casual diner eating reminiscent of his college years. He has created the menu to offer Shanghai residents a place to indulge in traditional American comfort eats; featuring such mammoth curiosities as the Fat Bitch (RMB88), which will challenge even the greediest among us. This football-sized delicacy is a Mediterranean-style wrap filled with a gargantuan selection of meats, including roast beef, grilled chicken, crispy bacon, mozzarella, guacamole, extra cheese and fries, all smothered in Piro's secret sauce.
Don't be put off by the challenges of the menu, as there are numerous choices that will satisfy the more moderate eater. The Nittany Nachos are simply scrumptious; the perfect combination of crispy chips, ground beef, sour cream and lightly spiced guacamole, it's best shared if you want to leave room for more (RMB75). The selections range from burgers to sandwiches, salads and pizzas, with a choice of Chinese sets laid on at lunchtime (RMB32-38).
There is also a typical American Sunday brunch (RMB50-70) of waffles and pancakes drenched with classic maple syrup to help you recover from the trials of Saturday night.
Burgers here are made with a carefully prepared combination of chuck and beef sirloin to maximize taste.
The Classic Burger (RMB48), however, owes its tastiness more to the rich onion marmalade, the secret sauce and the lightly toasted bun than the carnivorous mix. Similarly the Bacon, Mushroom Cheeseburger (RMB62) could be meatier, but the fries are satisfyingly crunchy and more-ish.
Comfort is key at Piro, and the soft sofas and banquette seating are designed to offer a welcoming environment in which to indulge in either food, coffees, cocktails or all of the above. The atmosphere is friendly and the staff are keen to create a place where they will get to know their clientele, building a relationship with regulars by making everyone feel at home.
The Bottom Line: Good-value food and to hell with the calories!
