Kakadu

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by Rosy Meek
on Monday, January 28, 2008 12:00 AM

Kakadu is a name intertwined with the outback and alive with Australian cultural, natural and national heritage. The name gives diners an instant idea of what to expect but its exoticism also leaves Kakadu with much to live up to. The question on this diner's lips was whether the name would remain symbolic or make the transition from a good concept to great Australian cuisine.

The robust menu covers a laidback breakfast through to a brasserie-style evening meal. The standard pizzas, burgers and sandwiches are here but given an Australian edge, like the Papunya Pizza with wild fire bush spices, or the Aussie Beef Burger with beetroot chutney. Lying in wait to stake out a name for Kakadu within the crowded Shanghai restaurant scene are the alluring game meats. The Kakadu BBQ offers chunks of emu and crocodile skewers alongside the tamer lamb and duck in a native Australian riberry and lemon myrtle reduction. The chef's signature dish is the rack of lamb on a bed of pumpkin and sweet potato with mint pesto, a great value at 113RMB.

The dessert menu is said to be the chef's specialty, and it shows. The traditional chocolate Lamington dessert is paired perfectly with toasted coconut ice cream and the Rhubarb Pavlova with cat's tongue biscuits and lemon myrtle compote is delicious.

The bar hosts an array of Australian beers including VB, Coopers and Crown, and the prices would make any Aussie ex-pat feel more than at home. The wine list is extensive with many wines offered by the glass, a bonus for anyone popping in for their lunch hour. By day, the atmosphere is lively and refreshing, as evening falls, subtle lighting transforms the restaurant into a far more intimate and indulgent experience.

Kakadu attacks the stereotype of Australian cooking with aplomb. Its concept and menu are carefully considered and it brings Australian cuisine in Shanghai into the sphere of fine dining while retaining that laidback Aussie attitude.