/ Reviews / Australian
Just Like Home
by Steph Wy Ng
on Friday, November 06, 2009 12:00 AM
"You're late. I'm sorry, the table is no longer available," were the words that greeted us on arrival at Mr Willis. Though only open for 3 weeks, the restaurant is crammed by 8pm with diners and those waiting for a table. So be sure to book in advance and try not to be late - unless you want to lose your place.
Luckily, former-executive chef of Wagas, Craig Willis himself saved the evening and ushered us over to a table. The décor here is cosy and comfortable, with an open-plan kitchen where Mr. Willis can be seen monitoring the chefs and their cooking. When asked about the recommended dishes, the Australian-born head chef shrugs and replies, "just have a look at the menu and order what you like". All portions are made for sharing and the mantra here is homely, family-style cooking.
But it's doubtful that family-style cooking can achieve anything close to the Four Seasons Chocolate Velvet Cake (RMB56): a thin slice of richer-than-rich chocolate bliss with a slight hint of coffee, rum and coconut. Appearing at the end of the meal, it almost eclipses all the other dishes with its seductive chocolate overtures.
Not everyone is satisfied by an appeal to the sweet tooth but seafood enthusiasts will enjoy the tasty crisp skin of the fresh Snapper with Chive Butter and Mashed Potatoes (RMB130). For a meatier option, the Grilled Wagu Sirloin with Red Wine Butter and Fried Potatoes should satisfy - the beef is imported from Australia and, though slightly overcooked, still manages to melt in the mouth.
Reminiscent of those warm, jolly family meals, Mr Willis also serves up a scrumptious Sunday Roast for two, consisting of an enormous 800g Australian Angus Cutlet with Béarnaise Sauce, Bordelaise Sauce, Fried Potatoes and Grilled Zuchhini for RMB395. This version of the roast, like all food at Mr. Willis, may be more sophisticated than the average home-cooked meal, but the dishes are filled with all the warmth of simple family pleasures.
The Bottom Line: Simple but delicious homemade-style dishes.
