Room 28

4 Photos

by Ingrid Peterson
on Monday, March 03, 2008 12:00 AM

You may hear some buzz this month and find yourself asking, ''Where IS Room 28, and how can I remember that name?'' You'll find it just after your eye sets its focus past the bustle of its British Concession street, and on a rather looming, contemporary styled wooden gate. Room 28 owes its name to the fact that it houses room 27 and 28 of the URBN Hotel, a new intimate and earth conscious choice for Shanghai's visitors.

Room 28's soft lights illuminate vertical trees and fountains in the private courtyard. Inside, understated design enlists rich textures and genuine materials to entice the eye. Grey slats of stone at diagonals and a constellation of vessel-shaped lamps break up the sizeable dining room. The open kitchen allows a peak into a more bustling reality. Reception is a design show piece, a wall made entirely of rich leather suitcases.

The dinner menu consisted of a single sheet of the chef's seasonal creations. Dishes range from winter comfort food to worldly spices and combinations. There is something for everyone, from the health-conscious vegetarian to the meat-and-potatoes sort. It happens to be perfect meat and potatoes weather, and mains like Australian beef or roast chicken with sweet diablo chilies promised warmth. We tried the herbed sausage on a mound of garlicky mashed potatoes priced at 118rmb. The red cabbage side was exceedingly bitter- but no matter, we were in rich food heaven. Backtrack to the colorful and ever-so playful starters. Chicken liver pate and caramelized onion was smooth and balanced, whereas vinegar overwhelmed the grilled artichoke and mushroom salad. The wine list was fresh and balanced, with 5 or so wines by the glass featured on the dinner menu. Banana tart with vanilla ice cream was both dainty and decadent.

Think of ''Room 28'' as a password to artful dining in tasteful surroundings, it's worth remembering.