/ Reviews / Bakery
Everything Nice
by Monica Liau
on Friday, February 05, 2010 12:00 AM
Finding western-style bakeries is hard in Shanghai. While there are baked goods on every corner, including chains like 85 Degrees and Paris Baguette, most selections involve fried, fluffy, sweet bread, or various versions of mystery meat. Oftentimes the beautiful cakes displayed are actually more for decorative emphasis and end up being wispy balloons of whipped cream and steamed cake. Some argue that offerings from establishments like Paul's, City Shop or the Grand Hyatt fill the gap. I would argue that these places charge murderous western prices for bakery items that are good but not great.
Next time you want to stop in for something sinful or to grab a functional loaf of bread for dinner, it may be worth trying newly opened Baker & Spice on AnFu Road. This small, warm neighborhood bakery has an open kitchen and serves generously sized cakes and pastries (RMB10-18), and loaves of bread (RMB25-30). Particular applause is due to the gluten-free Almond and Orange Cake, made with almond powder instead of flour. While it was introduced as a healthy option, there was nothing "whole grain" about this moist, citrusy and fragrant slice. Also excellent was the rich zucchini, carrot and poppy seed cake, topped with a luscious cream cheese frosting. Of the multiple bread options, the olive bread (RMB32) was big, crusty and chock-full of black olives. There are also whole cakes that are sold for RMB90-100 each, and quality Illy coffee (RMB18-25).
Perhaps even more surprising was that the breakfast special (toast, butter, coffee and a copy of the Shanghai Daily, RMB33) was actually worth the money. Fruit and nut toast was thick, chewy and satisfyingly full of cranberries, almonds and orange peel. Baker & Spice also sells pre-made sandwiches (RMB35-45), jams made on site, Twinings tea and imported wines-though all are pricey. At the end of the day, this is a place to pick up all things fresh from the oven and will be a welcome edition to a community hungry for bread.
The Bottom Line: A sweet bakery, serving western breads and cakes.
