/ Reviews / Belgian
Look at the Mussels on That
by Mary Weeks
on Friday, May 28, 2010 12:00 AM
A great location, a wonderfully intact and well-preserved old building, a good selection of well-chosen beers and wines, and simple food done well: on an evening out you could be happy with any one of these elements, but new Belgian bistro Chambar impressively manages to combine them all. Not surprising then that in the two short weeks it's been open, it already has its regulars.
Placing importance on traditional Belgian cuisine, the salad of goat's cheese, greens, olives, pickles, eggs and tuna (RMB78), is a pleasing balance of textures, flavors and colors, with meltingly soft cheese. There are 18 different types of Belgian beer with which to complement the dish, from well-known brews such as Stella Artois and Hoegaarden to more specialty options. Though not everyone can claim to be a beer lover, the Lambic Peche by Lindeman's (RMB50) will convert you. It's a traditional peach-infused drink that is the perfect afternoon refreshment and a delicious initiation into more traditional beers for those who, well, don't like beer.
In fact, you could come here for the beer alone, but you'd be missing out on Chambar's signature offering: its mussels, served six different ways (RMB98/148). Mussels with garlic and fresh cream, and mussels with cilantro and curry are both divine; rich and fulfilling, these shellfish are the perfect balance of their respective ingredients. However, if you're not such a cream-loving cat then your mussels can come more simply prepared in white wine or Hoegaarden beer to bring out their natural flavor.
Too much choice can be detrimental to a restaurant's success but Chambar has paired down its menu to the basics, and it's done it well. The pan-fried cod with vegetables and lime butter sauce (RMB198) was another good example; a simple dish with thoughtfully chosen, tasty and more unusual ingredients that will make you take note.
Feel like staying a while and letting it digest? On the fourth floor you'll find a relaxation area, complete with pool table, television and stocked humidor, and a balcony from which you can gaze at the night-time activity below you through gently rustling leaves. Everything about Chambar is designed to encourage you to slow down, focus on the moment and enjoy it.
