Eastern Promise

2 Photos

by Jaki Faulkner
on Friday, July 23, 2010 12:00 AM

Stoyan Atsarov has lived in China for over ten years, five of which he spent in Wuhan teaching football. After moving to Shanghai five years ago, he has now achieved a life-long dream by opening Vitosha, the first Bulgarian restaurant in China. Excited by the challenge to take on the more prominent, similar dining experiences offered by the Turkish, Greek and Macedonian outlets already scattered across Shanghai, Stoyan has situated his homely and cozy offering in the ever-evolving, ever-popular TaiKang Road.

Digging in with a typical hot-weather favourite, the cold cucumber soup Tarator (RMB35) is a very refreshing starter for Shanghai's stuffy summer nights. A number of its ingredients are similar to Greek tzatziki, just as the Bulgarian Meatballs and the Kebapche are distinctive versions of Turkish kebabs. Both these dishes are grilled just right and cost RMB70 for three portions, including a serving of Lutenitsa - the national relish of Bulgaria, Macedonia and Serbia, which consists of tomatoes, peppers, onion, garlic, black pepper and a few other secret ingredients, which the chef shyly refuses to disclose.

The Sache (hot plate) comes in a choice of chicken, pork or veal, and ranges from RMB98 to RMB128. It's a hearty but not overwhelming dish, cooked in an oven that steams your meat to prevent it drying out. The Chicken Kavarma Gyuvech, however, is a little bland - it's basically an unfussy vegetable casserole, with chicken chucked in as an afterthought, served in a clay pot.

Those playing it safe can indulge in white wine from No Man's Land Vineyard, which is fruity, fresh and not so badly priced at RMB168. For the adventurous, the house rakia - a traditional Bulgarian spirit made from grapes - is sturdy liquor that forgoes the throat-burning vigor often associated with similar palinka-style drinks.

Vitosha has a very friendly, homely feel. With a Bulgarian community not even close to the 100 mark, it's going to be tough to find an audience who even know what Bulgarian cuisine can offer, but we left smiling and - considering it had only been open two days prior to our visit - optimistic about the Shanghai newcomer's future.

The Bottom Line: A surprising but satisfying journey into a rarely discovered cuisine.