/ Reviews / Cafe
Extra Syrup
by Tom Lee
on Friday, July 02, 2010 12:00 AM
Pancakes have a unique place in the cuisine of the United States. Unlike the crepe-style creations more popular in Europe, the fat circles of cooked batter generally use a raising agent to puff them up into plumper pieces. Stacked and served under a mound of syrup and toppings, it's a hearty start to the day.
No doubt hoping to tap the city's substantial American populace, as well as the curiosity of everyone else, Mr. Pancake keeps it short and sweet, literally. Their pancakes (RMB22-28) come in five varieties - all very saccharine - including blueberry, raspberry, chocolate and banana walnut, as well as plain buttermilk. On a fluffiness scale of one to ten (one being a lead weight and ten being wisps of clouds), it's a solid seven: slightly chewy but pleasantly fresh, and topped more with sauce than fruit. They say good things come in threes and these homemade treats arrive as a steaming trio accompanied by small porcelain jugs of maple syrup - a tasteful touch, even if you can see the staff hastily distilling it from bottles of Log Cabin Country Kitchen at the counter.
Though it's keen to push the pancakes, you can also satisfy your sugar craving by downing whipped toppings scooped atop waffles (RMB25-RMB32), with fresh fruit by far the healthiest option. Doubling your egg intake with the omelet selection (RMB28-38), the spiced Spanish Omelet is particularly noteworthy, generously apportioned with vegetables and complemented by a pair of pancakes. Big eaters, though, should go for the ‘Plate Specials' (RMB25-42) - particularly the house breakfast. Depending on your meaty preference, bacon, smoked ham or an unappetizing chicken sausage are slapped down next to a couple of - you guessed it - pancakes, and two eggs cooked to your preference.
Décor is a bit hodge-podge, mixing latticed ceilings, white-washed walls and red bricks with scarlet sofas and wooden tables. While the cruets of salt and pepper speak of diners, the layout is much more like a coffee shop, mounting a random array of photographs and pictures on the surfaces - one of which looks suspiciously like a flaming World Trade Center Tower.
Staying open from 7:30 in the morning right until 10:30 at night, you can jump-start your body with all-day breakfast options almost anytime; whether you're an early bird that rises with the sun or a night owl that falls out of bed at dark.
The Bottom Line: Keeping it simple, Mr. Pancake doesn't skimp in size but don't expect an American-style pancake-joint doppelganger.
