/ Reviews / French
French Made but No Va Va Voom
by Steph Wy Ng
on Friday, November 27, 2009 12:00 AM
Le Saleya's warm interior, composed of washed dark red and orange walls with Mediterranean décor, is an inviting sight. The intimate atmosphere inside seats about twenty, though the additional tables on the terrace are ideal for weekend brunches in warmer weather, or for those that revel in the remarkably crisp Shanghai mornings of late.
Le Saleya has a set menu lunch for RMB98 and a dinner menu for RMB208. Naturally, an a la carte three-course meal is slightly more pricey, hitting the RMB300 mark, but if French wine is your weakness, go for a two-courser and order a glass (RMB33-88), carafe or bottle of the vintage that takes your fancy. There's wine to suit every taste and if you find the multitude of options overwhelming, staff are on hand to give succinct suggestions regarding recommendations from the impressive collection.
Moving past the flavourful bouquets to the entrees, the traditional starter of Snails with Garlic and Parsley was chewy but soft, though the ingredients lacked impact. The Artichoke Heart Salad with Bayonne Ham supplied this omission in part, though the strong taste of the artichoke overwhelmed the ham. Nonetheless, the dishes were sufficiently pleasant and satisfying for RMB88.
Both the fatty Roasted Lamb Chops and the Grilled Beef Fillet mains (each RMB158) were fresh, succulent and well-seasoned, yet unremarkable when compared to the desserts.
The Crème Brule (RMB68), hailed as one of the best in town, is aptly praised. A glazed, crunchy caramel surface cracks away to reveal a scrumptious creamy, milky filling - though perhaps lacking in sufficient smooth crème to thoroughly impress. The Chocolate Profiteroles (RMB68) are unique: below the choux-pastry exterior, there's more ice cream than fluffy whipped-cream filling. The profiteroles swim in a pool of dark chocolate, providing a fulfilling ending to the largely tolerable meal. It may be French made like the Renault Clio, but Le Saleya has a distinct lack of Va Va Voom.
The Bottom Line: Adequate French cuisine but excellent wine.
