842 Lounge
by Tom Lee
on Friday, January 29, 2010
Saved by the Seafood
The French-trained German chef of Lounge 842 excels at seafood. While some of the other items on the menu are deserving of a stern reprimand, the kitchen has a very competent grasp of its fish. Highest on the list of dishes worthy of accolades is the sea bass (RMB165), pan-fried with such an exact science that its flesh is near perfect - and one should not use such adjectives lightly. The potato puree accompaniment serves only to highlight the sea bass centerpiece, which is unadulterated by unnecessary spice - a blessing for food purists who have grown weary of grandiloquent attempts to excite the palate with bizarre assortments of herbs. Scallops (RMB78) are equally noteworthy, nicely browned and again left to their own natural aromas, which are marred somewhat by a far too abundant presence of bacon lardons.
An amaretto cream pumpkin soup (RMB58) has its otherwise rich and pleasant contents severely wounded by a superfluous use of pepper; while on the other end of the scale, the frog legs (RMB75) are bland. It is apparent that here the chef was going for the same simple approach as he takes with his fish, but frog legs are in general lacking in character - and these ones were noteworthy for a dearth of self-assertion. Vegetable lasagna (RMB138), while generously apportioned with vegetables, suffers from a heavy-handed approach to the tomato contents, though not ruinous on balance.
Martinis here deserve a special recommendation. From behind a handsomely appointed bar on the first floor, a competent bartender creates cocktails of all shapes and sizes - the cucumber martini in particular has a lovely lemon-cucumber mix that quite surprises with its lightly fruity flavors. Whether with dinner or sipped in the lounge areas on the second and third floors, these drinks are delightful evening refreshers.
The Bottom Line: Purely cooked seafood and well-mixed martinis save this venue from a dismissive sniff, though all the dishes could have potential if they were as gracefully handled as the sea bass.
