/ Reviews / French
Gourmet Eden
by Ruth Waldron
on Friday, March 25, 2011 12:00 AM
Understated charm is not often associated with the shiny, new and overtly glossy Shanghai of 2011. Nevertheless, as many of you will have noticed, something unusual is happening on SiNan Road. Renovating a huge area of the former French Concession has taken some considerable time, and finally the butterfly that is Hotel Massenet has emerged from its dusty, construction chrysalis. Within these tastefully refurbished environs nestles an elegant French dining gem, Aux Jardins. The beautifully restored interior is both luxurious and relaxed, with the refined decor mirroring the style of the 1920s with rigorous attention to detail.
Many people associate French cuisine with heavy, creamy, cheese-laden sauces; however, the menu designed by Parisian chef, Jose de Castro, draws more from the lighter side of southern French cooking, producing delicately seasoned, deliciously light dishes. This gentler approach should appeal more to local tastes, with some typical ingredients substituted for more familiar, local examples, such as bok choi.
All the ingredients used at Aux Jardin are organic: the vegetables are grown locally, the meats come from Australia and the fish is flown in from Indonesia - so, no stinting here! The a la carte menu is broad-ranging and portions are large throughout, though appetizers like the Pan-seared Frog Legs with Garlic Butter (RMB98) - a satisfying, lip-smacking start to the meal - make it hard to avoid gorging early on.
The quality of the ingredients is what makes even simple fare sparkle: Grilled Whole Sole (RMB298) is presented with just steamed baby potatoes and a squeeze of lemon, yet it leaves nothing wanting. If you prefer something more robust, the Australian Roast Rack of Veal with Organic Vegetables (RMB268) will satisfy even the most demanding appetite; the light garlic confit adds a dash of sophistication to the choice.
Consistently impressive, the new dessert menu created by Chef Miller Wang completes the scrumptious scene, with prices ranging from RMB68-88. Chocolate Brownie Mousse and Lemon Tart are both tempting; but the slice of Rice Pudding, served with saffron parfait and bitter chocolate sorbet, is wickedly creamy and a clever combination of flavors, making it a mini-masterpiece.
The Bottom Line: Parisian-style dining that employs both simplicity and complexity where appropriate with impressive results.
