/ Reviews / French
Oysters by the Fireside
by Monica Liau
on Friday, December 25, 2009 12:00 AM
The latest restaurant in the Eduardo Vargas menagerie is Balthazar, a brasserie based around the concept that cold weather food is always a hit. Located in an old renovated house at the edge of Tianzifang, Vargas' restaurant consists of dark wood, winding staircases and a roaring fire in the chimney place.
Most worthwhile on the Balthazar menu are the array of starters and small plates. The Oysters Rockefeller (RMB65) are definitely the highlight, each oyster cooked in shell with spinach, bacon and a light, mustardy hollandaise sauce - though maintaining the subtle brininess of the bivalves. Sizzling escargot (RMB45) come out in the appropriate baking dish, each of the six little sections holding tasty snails completely submerged in garlic-tarragon butter. Frissee aux Lardons (RMB50) is covered in bacon and one perfectly poached egg, the salad coming as a welcome vegetable component to the meal. Avoid the Pork Rillets de Paris (RMB45), as it lacks any distinguishing characteristics.
The mains often run in quantity from too much to not enough. While Codfish Bouillabaisse (RMB140) is full of tender codfish, silken scallops and lovely mussels, it lacks that extra binding element which could bring all of the different ingredients together. On the opposite end of the spectrum, the Traditional French Cassoulet (RMB128) - a stew of lamb, merguez sausage, duck confit and stewed white beans - is so heavy that the individual meat is viciously drowned by the sauce and more virulent flavors. The Pork Tenderloin (RMB88), however, displays an artful take on sweet and savory; the tender pork resting atop a bed of pumpkin puree and purple cabbage, warmed by a port wine reduction and thyme cream sauce.
It is essential to pick judiciously when perusing Balthazar's menu, but the crackling fireplace and warming food are sure to be a draw for the Tianzifang dining scene.
The Bottom Line: Balthazar is patchy in places but the oysters are to die for.
