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A Fine French Pairing
by Steph Wy Ng
on Friday, August 28, 2009 12:00 AM
Nougatine and Jean Georges make an impressive coupling. Celebrated French chef Jean Georges Vongerichten paired up the two distinctive restaurants at his signature New York eaterie, and last year added the more casual, bistro-styled Nougatine concept to his Jean Georges restaurant at Three on The Bund.
To celebrate the summer, Nougatine has added some intriguing new dishes to its menu. Recently appointed Executive Chef Lam Ming Kin explains that the bistro is focusing on seasonal ingredients, such as crab. The winning combination of Crispy Soft Shelled Crab with Cucumber, Lime and Crystallised Ginger (RMB88) makes for a sublime starter. Porcini mushrooms, in season and specially imported from Yunnan, are roasted in a smoke- fired oven and served with Pan Seared Salmon, Green Chilli and Garlic (RMB158). The Grilled Beef Tenderloin is paired with Crunchy Potatoes and a Smokey Tomato Compote (RMB168) to create a fine mix of flavors for your main course.
Though the Crème Fraiche Cheesecake with Sour Cherry Marmalade is served in a small portion, the richness of the crème fraiche, the biscuit base and the tangy cherry sauce is just mouth-wateringly right. The homemade Ice Cream Sorbets have subtle yet natural flavors and the classic Jean Georges Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream has a runny, rich chocolate centre that will melt the hardest culinary heart. The desserts are well worth the RMB58, and are the highlight of the Nougatine menu.
For the full summertime Jean Georges dining experience, the restaurant has a Prix Fixe menu with three courses plus any dessert priced at RMB538. To reflect the focus on seasonal produce, the menu is recreated twice each month by Chef Lam. Innovative dishes available at the moment include the Foie Gras Brulee with Dried Sour Candied Pistachio, and Sea Scallops with Caramelised Cauliflower Caper-Raisen Emulsion.
And look out for the main man himself. Having last visited Shanghai in April, Jean Georges is set to return in September.
