Graffiti Makes Its Mark

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by Monica Liau
on Friday, October 23, 2009 12:00 AM

Veteran Shanghai restaurateur Alexandre Daune recently closed the doors on his petite restaurant 570, and transformed it into Graffiti. The new candy-colored seats, white walls and pumping sound system reflect a less formal approach to dining than Daune's Le Saleya and La Grange. "We want to give Graffiti its own identity," says manager Daniel Weinberg, "so we've given the food, drink and décor a younger, lighter touch."
The hip vibe is also apparent in the menu, which is kept short and riddled with silly monikers. You're Under Arrest is a light tuna and carrot salad, while Underground Limbo comprises Edam cheese, potato and tomato sauce highlighted with basil. Our favorite however was the Don Jamon Ramon, with thin slices of salty ham and onions adding a welcome punch to rich Edam cheese.
All mains are prepared on the kitchen grill. Diners select a steak (RMB128) or something from the sea (RMB138) along with a sauce, and it is served on a wooden cutting board with side dishes. The Duck Magret was top notch; seared on the outside but kept a deep purple inside. The orange sauce studded with rind was a perfect traditional complement. The Tuna wasn't highest grade, but it came appropriately charred and well seasoned.
Perhaps the most exciting part of Graffiti is its wine list. The full page of mostly new world wines can all be sampled by the glass (RMB32-48), carafe (RMB128-248) or bottle. Daune has installed a wine refrigerator, which programs each wine's ideal temperature, so even the distinctive Portuguese red, Alentejo Monte de Peceguina (RMB48/glass) comes slightly chilled and fragrant. Pop in to Graffiti from 6-8pm and you'll be able to sample the selection during buy-one-get-one-free happy hour.
The combination of upbeat ambience, well-priced wines and fun fare should see Graffiti leaving a mark on Shanghai's dining scene.
The Bottom Line: Graffiti is young, fun and hip.