/ Reviews / French
Flour Power Conjures Bold Brasserie
by Steph Wy Ng
on Friday, August 13, 2010 12:00 AM
Since the first House of Flour (hoF) opened five years ago in ZhangJiang High-tech Park, Owner Brian Tan has been working on a slow but steady spree of new projects, expanding his brand's appeal. While the popular SiNan Road store is most well-known for its mouth-wateringly delicious deserts, his fourth location is a bar offering food that's light, a good accompaniment to the vast wine selection.
For early explorers during the soft opening phase, there's a "happy hour" - or perhaps, more accurately, a "happy day" - that entices the reticent with buy-one-get-one-free on all wines served by the glass (RMB40-RMB60), or take a bottle home with you and get 25 percent off. Though the wine menu is still being finalized, it's user-friendly and helpfully color-coded, catering for Wine Spectator devotees and simple wine enthusiasts alike. There's something for all taste buds, from light and floral, to sweet and spicy, and even playful - with a few organic vintages thrown in too.
The point here is not simply to get soused but to pair wine with dishes from their food menu. The salad platter with French duck rillettes, pan-fried potatoes, ratatouille and camembert (RMB78) is a near perfect combination; though the cheese tends to overwhelm the overall flavor of the dish, the sweet cherry tomatoes are stuffed with tasty walnut pieces, and the meat is well marinated and well seasoned.
Wholesome fare delves a wee bit into the little-known delights of merry old England. These are surprisingly good-considering that Chef Chee Ming See, originally from Singapore, trained in French pastry and cuisine. Particularly hearty and jubilant, the Bangers and Mash, priced at RMB88, are more upscale than the typical British version, served up with mustard and an unusual, tangy, spicy sauce. Three types of gourmet sausages are available to accompany the smooth buttery potato mash: lamb and mint, spicy pork and veal.
Is there anyone foolhardy enough to venture into hoF without sampling the desserts? Ask for the Chocolate Foam Cake (RMB36) to be served slightly warm for a heavenly, rich chocolate experience; or perhaps the Caramel Cake, which has a spongy base and a thin caramel topping, complete with a sprinkling of salt on the top.
The Bottom Line: Chocolate is the icing on the cake at the House of Flour, but there's still something to be said for a bit of sausage and a nice glass of wine.
