/ Reviews / French
A Mardi Gras of Flavors
by Monica Liau
on Friday, February 26, 2010 12:00 AM
Newly opened Mardi Gras is a gorgeous if eclectic space. It is a traditional French restaurant housed in an 80-year-old Spanish villa renovated in a distinctly Japanese style, including a sunken bar upstairs. The effect could be confusing, yet somehow it works.
The Japanese touch comes courtesy of owner Ko Yamazaki. The French cuisine is by head chef Kenji Ishibashi, who was invited by Yamazaki to Shanghai after studying at Michelin-rated restaurants in Marseille and Nice. His training shows in his food.
Ishibashi's homemade Pate de Campagne (RMB55) comes thickly cut, topped with walnuts and fragrant with cinnamon and nutmeg. It is rich and meaty, served with punchy grain mustard, little pickles and fresh salad.
The Foie Gras (RMB150) is also not to be missed. Served seared on a bed of mixed mushrooms and a port wine reduction, it is perfectly tender. The combination of earthy, fruity and rich flavors are well balanced.
But the shining star is Ishibashi's pork confit (RMB170). A departure from the standard duck confit, Ishibashi's version uses pieces of pork soaked in pork fat for several hours and then quickly fried. The result is meat so tender that it can be cut with a fork, and so flavorful that it doesn't need the accompanying mustard. The surrounding vegetables and sauerkraut are mild complements, but the meat could well be served alone.
The house-made desserts are the kind of indulgences worth the calories. Ishibashi's Verona Chocolate Torte (RMB70) is dark and bittersweet, perfect with a black coffee or glass of red wine. The sweet and sour Lemon Meringue Tart (RMB38) will turn heads and the Crème Caramel (RMB30) is rich and buttery.
Overall, Yamazaki and Ishibashi have done an excellent job of melding some of the best of East and West. To round out the cultures represented, Mardi Gras will soon feature a standing tapas bar.
The Bottom Line: Mardi Gras' Japanese chef Ishibashi translates his Michelin-trained skills into an elegant French meal.
