/ Reviews / French
The Mussels from Brussels
by Tom Lee
on Friday, December 17, 2010 12:00 AM
When a restaurant takes its name from a foodstuff, it's pretty much guaranteed that the moniker contains a subtle hint towards the house specialty. It will come as no surprise, therefore, that Moules - which is French for "mussels" - prides itself on, well, mussels. Served in 14 different styles, there's certainly no shortage of the mollusk floating about in the multifarious sauces.
Mussels are popular grub for several nations around Europe, perhaps the most notable being France and Belgium. Judging from the imported Strassen cider, the triumvirate of owners seems to have leaned slightly towards the Belgian side of things, while the French chef has opted, with true patriotic fervor, to make all the dishes traditional according to his nation - as he is keen to emphasize.
Several of the options on offer take their names from regions of France, including the Ardennes, an area which spans the border of the two great mussel nations. Each portion is served in a steaming, coral-red pot, reminiscent of crockery à la campagne. Provençal-style (RMB90) entails a batch largely dominated by bell peppers and mushrooms, plus a few pieces of eggplant and bacon.
Better known to seafood eaters, the Moules Marinière (RMB72) skimps a little on the white wine, filling its place with an abundance of onions. Both the Provençal and the marinière sauce are toned down to highlight the quality of the main constituent: the Godzilla-size mussels. Far from being an international import, this key ingredient is actually brought in every two days from the Shengsi Islands, a spot just outside Shanghai renowned for its seafood.
Excluding the namesake dish, there are still a significant handful of other chicken, beef and seafood items to sample, from the foie gras topped Tenderloin Rossini (RMB168) and the Beef Bourguignon stew (RMB136), to the crust-topped, bisque-filled Roasted Lobster (RMB188) - all of which are cooked in "the authentic French style", as the head chef, once more, assures.
On the cusp of XinTianDi, Moules certainly has its share of flashy competition. Keen to assert its own right to the area, the restaurant has carefully designed its décor, with mirrors on the ceiling and a glass façade running the length of the restaurant, giving the interior a bright glow, emphasized by the floors, tables and lighting features that reflect back their own whiteness. Those seeking a little novelty in their dining options will certainly find it supplied here, both in terms of food and design.
The Bottom Line: Big pots of mussels with a heavy dash of French influence
