/ Reviews / Fusion
Grub-a-dub-dub
by Mary Weeks
on Friday, September 03, 2010 12:00 AM
Newly opened Fulton Place definitely falls on the British side of the European culinary opportunities that one may find in Shanghai. Some may speak of British cuisine's less-than-stellar reputation but don't let such a hackneyed misconception dissuade you from what is a positively intriguing dining experience, from quirky vintage-inspired décor - all Victorian wallpaper and antique-like side cupboards - to the bar snacks on offer that accompany your PC Fizz (Pimms, Chartreuse, lemon, lime, egg white, RMB58).
If not for its food, Britain does have a reputation as a haven for lovers. Brits are a typically sensuous people, skilled in the art of flirtation and romance. Okay, so that's also not a trait one hears often, but Fulton Place is a great locale to go on a date. Its dim and flattering spot lighting makes each table feel secluded, alone, private, with an almost stage-like setting. Your trembling hands will instinctively touch as you both reach for the bowl of warmed almonds.
The food is tasty and good-looking, encouraging you and your companion to slow down, savor and share, while uttering such critiques on the food as: "Honey, you must try my Fulton toast (RMB38). The kumquat marmalade against the creamy chive goat's cheese is a delight on the tongue." The unusual mix of ingredients you'll find in a typical dish will certainly entice curiosity or at least something to talk about if the conversation runs dry; perhaps one of you may murmur: "So, how ‘bout them pistachios in that salmon confit for RMB158. Do they go well with the herbal jus, shitake mushrooms and lettuce stems or what?" And if he or she is paying - so much the better, as prices here are on the steeper side.
If your mood happens to be more nostalgic than romantic, you can't go wrong with the slow-cooked egg (RMB58): an impossibly soft and runny poached egg atop an asparagus puree with mushrooms and crunchy parmesan that will have every ex-schoolgirl or boy dreaming of "somewhere in a foreign field" as they sip their elderflower refresher (RMB35).
Despite the often unusual ingredients, like the gingered watermelon dessert (RMB58), much of the fare on offer is unexpectedly familiar to Western palates and surprisingly comforting, despite its self-aggrandizing boutique presentation.
The Bottom Line: Throwing a few distinctively British dashes into the European melting pot, Fulton Place proves that Albion's cuisine can, on occasion, turn up the romantic charm and woo a dinner guest.
