Starship on the HuangPu

2 Photos

by Ruth Waldron
on Friday, February 18, 2011 12:00 AM

Aptly named for its location on the banks of the HuangPu, with spectacular views of the striking Shanghai skyline up river, Quay's elevation over the water lends it both tranquility and scenic splendor. It's an entertaining and sophisticated take on the Starship Enterprise from the 1960s' version of Star Trek, with zany clashing colors, egg-shaped seating pods and crockery in shades of turquoise, yellow and orange. All that gimmickry really shouldn't work, but it is actually charming and welcoming.

In contrast, the menu is a modern and unfussy mix of Western and traditional local fare. Chef Julie Donohue comes to Shanghai from Sydney, where she was lauded for her style and skill at the InterContinental. She aims to provide simple, clean, fresh flavors.

Smoked Salmon (RMB130) is a delicious way to start: delicate slivers of pink fish with rocket, seasoned with lemon salt and drizzled with horseradish dressing, would also make a great light lunch (RMB130). On the other hand, Won Ton Soup (RMB50) is a really hearty option. The broth is full of rich chicken and herb essence, and the wholesome wontons are very satisfying. Another local favorite is the Xiaolongbao Dumplings (RMB40), served with a helpful little page of eating instructions that makes for an authentic experience.

Main courses run the gamut from crunchy Pork Schnitzel (RMB100) with a light, vibrant salad of fennel, apple, radish and watercress mayonnaise, to fresh Sea Bass (RMB190) complimented by asparagus in lemon oil and roasted fennel. The hint of aniseed in the fennel works particularly well with the mildly earthy undertones of the flaky, white fish flesh.

Exhibiting a neat twist on a traditional pudding, the Mango Crumble (RMB80) is full of fruit pieces that lend just the right amount of citrus to contrast successfully with the spiced biscuit crumble. Equally delicious and expertly flavored is the Cardamom and Lime Crème Brûlée (RMB80). This dainty dessert has a fine crunchy surface masking gorgeously creamy custard beneath.

If there is any criticism due, it's that the food is a little pricey for a restaurant that describes itself as a "casual" dining experience. Nevertheless, it has to be said that there is no stinting on quality or taste.

The Bottom Line: From the food to the décor, everything is vintage modern, melding classic dishes and iconography to create a new experience.