Roots and Bones

2 Photos

by Tom Lee
on Friday, October 29, 2010 12:00 AM

Lotuses are so overused as a symbol in Chinese establishments, be it spas or restaurants, that the motif induces horrifying visions of pan-Asian décor and terrible, Westernized food. It makes a nice change, then, to try a place called "lotus" that actually has more to do with this species of flower than tacky wallpaper.

Emerging from the lakes of HuBei Province, Lotus is a delicate, minimally designed space, sparsely interspersed with breezy murals of winds puffing across the walls. Its tome of a menu contains just about everything even remotely associated with HuBei: there's plenty of fish, as well as plenty of lotus.

Though definitely not one for those affrighted of cholesterol, the Fried Lotus with Soy Sauce (RMB28) is satisfyingly artery-clogging. Lotus root is cut into chunky slices, with pork wedged into the root's characteristic holes, and fried in plenty of oil. More seasonally appropriate, the warming Lotus Root Soup (RMB58) stews pork ribs and lotus roots into a tasty broth to heat-up the insides.

These namesake dishes tend to lie on the tamer side of the fence, though there are plenty of adventures to entice the intrepid explorer. The Crispy-skin Pig Feet (RMB15 for two) consists of a crunchy, thin exterior, a thick second layer of gelatinous skin and a few tidbits of meat right at the center. The Spicy Bullfrog (RMB58) is full of all sorts of herbs that fleetingly touch the tongue, before being eviscerated by a cruel burst of chili.

The Catfish in Spicy Soup (RMB68) is, perhaps mercifully, less spicy than the bullfrog but also less pleasant. Flesh and bone are both cooked into a mush that makes each mouthful oscillate between meat and cartilage: prepare to practice those oral skills in order to spit out mounds of white vertebrae. Another equally pertinent exercise in Chinese table etiquette is required for the Handmade Tofu with Abalone Sauce (RMB35). While the melting tofu and fishy sauce are worth the struggle, it does require a steady pair of hands and a skilful maneuvering of chopsticks to get the orange rectangles onto the plate and not into the lap.

It's these practice sessions with bones and chopsticks, bullfrogs and pig trotters, that make a meal at Lotus quite amusing: it's a trial in Chinese cuisine, both inviting experimentation and play, while reminding that there is a unique set of abilities requisite for those who wish to survive eating in proper Chinese style.

The Bottom Line: Solid food and a large menu give Lotus a good backbone, as long as the dishes don't fall apart into little, vertebrae-sized pieces.