Lam Ming Kin, Head Chef at Nougatine and Jean Georges in Three on the Bund

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on Friday, August 28, 2009 12:00 AM

It must be very competitive to work at a Jean Georges establishment, did you have to fight cleaver and skillet for the job?

It definitely wasn't easy. The problem was I had no experience or training in cuisine, other than what my father - who was also a chef - had taught me. At first, it seemed like there were only closed doors. Eventually, after many interviews, I got a position as a Junior Chef in a Hong Kong restaurant, and after that was asked to work at Jean Georges' Vong.

Do you have a food mantra when creating new dishes?

In any dish, it's all about the balance of three or four elements, like the sweet, the sour, the bitter and the spicy, and how they complement each other. Of course the presentation is important too, but I don't think it's anywhere near as important as flavour, and sometimes simplicity is best. I don't like when something comes to the table and you're not sure what it is. If I order fish, I want to get a fish!

If I gave you some chicken thighs, an eggplant and a potato, what would you do with them?

Hmmm. First I'd debone the chicken and pan-fry it. Then season the eggplant with salt and pepper, grill it until soft and scoop out the flesh to make a puree. With the potato, I'd make a thin broth by boiling it - as you do for mashed potatoes - and grating in parmesan cheese, lemon zest and a squeeze of lemon juice. Finally, I'd serve it all up on one plate, with the chicken balanced atop the puree and potato broth.

Delicious. Wish I'd actually brought the ingredients. When you're not playing with your food, what do you do to enjoy Shanghai?

Actually I like to eat. A lot. When I work I'm on my feet, tasting things but never really eating. Out of the kitchen, I like to just sit down and enjoy a great quality meal.