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Siobhan Gough, Executive Chef at Downstairs by David Laris
by
on Friday, December 17, 2010 12:00 AM
As the new chef at Downstairs, how is it stepping into someone else's shoes?
It's quite interesting. I came into an already established team, right in the middle of season change. I've worked here before, when the previous chef went on holiday. Knowing [David Laris Creates] and David well made it easier because I knew what he wanted and what he expects.
In terms of menu alterations, how much have you replaced?
About 85 percent. I've tried to bring back some of the original concept. The big thing about the Urbn Hotel is that it's renewable, and the menu should reflect that. I've tried to reinvigorate it. It's definitely not easy to get organic produce but I've been [in Shanghai] a while, so I've got a few connections. Shorter supply chains mean getting to know the food more. The dishes have become a bit more structured; a bit more restaurant and a bit less bar food. My own particular influence is herbs. I like freshness, I like food that's quite simple but where every ingredient is there for a reason.
We're salivating already! Recommend us a dish.
Actually, two come to mind, for different reasons. First is the pheasant stew, a casserole. I was brought up in the countryside in Ireland and, while it wasn't super common, it was easy to find. It's nice to see more game on menus. Second is the gnocchi with roast mushrooms. I was doing a bunch of different mushrooms with sage, sautéed, and it was already a really nice dish. Then one of the suppliers came in with two new mushrooms. I tested them out and as soon as I tasted it, I said to myself: "That's the dish!"
What is the most unusual ingredient you've cooked up on the menu?
Some of the mushrooms are quite unusual - there are lots of varieties you just don't get in Europe. And there are some great veggies and herbs here, like a huge range of green beans and radishes. There's a great specialist herbalist in town and he popped up with black garlic. It's whole garlic that's aged and fermented. It's pure black and has less acidity, while at the same time it's soft and quite sweet, like licorice. It is expensive though. At Downstairs, I have it with polenta but it's so easy to just pick up and eat all by itself.
When you're not eating your ingredients, what do you do to enjoy Shanghai?
There are a couple of bars on XingFu Road I frequent a lot. As far as my friends are concerned, Dada is the place. When you work in this job, it's really late when you finish, so really there's just drinking!
