Otto e Mezzo

by Rob Wallace
on Friday, February 03, 2012 12:00 AM

In January 2010, the culinary standards for all of Asia were elevated to another level when Chef Umberto Bombana amazed Hong Kong’s upper class by opening his now world-famous restaurant, 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA. As the only Italian restaurant outside the boot-shaped peninsula to ever be awarded Three Michelin Stars and boasting a waiting list as long as its name (four weeks to be exact), there is no arguing that Umberto’s eatery is a monument to excellence. Now, this ambitious Italian has decided to take his talents to the mainland, and open a restaurant with the same name but a renewed focus on cocktails. Your trusty Nightlife Editor was the first journalist allowed in to see if Bombana’s new Shanghai venue could live up to the hype.

Located within the recently opened Rockbund development - which includes 11 restored historic buildings - Otto e Mezzo’s Shanghai home harkens back to the elegance and sophistication of the city’s golden age. Mr. Bombana took a page from his cookbook when helping to design the décor of his restaurant/lounge, in the sense that he has allowed the robust character of just a few finely selected ingredients to wow his guests. The use of deep earth tones and glossy stone lends a feel of subtleness to a venue with such a dignified reputation.

However, with so many high-end institutions calling the area along the Huangpu River their home, guests will naturally flock to the places that treat them best. And thus, Mr. Bombana spared no expense in importing the finest staff he could assemble. Otto e Mezzo’s General Manager, Gian Luca, is a worldly man whose expertise knowledge of fine wines and cuisine is down right impressive. One of his first initiatives as commander in chief was to double the number of different wines offered in his restaurant to a stunning total of 400. Not only will Gian Luca take interested guests on a tour of the wine cellar, but he has also decided to sell his bottles at a rate 15% cheaper than his competitors in order ensure his clients feel encouraged to find the libation that suits just them.

Out of all the polite and insightful staff, however, Otto e Mezzo’s trump card is undoubtedly Bar Manager Dario Gentile. Despite the fact he was head bartender in a five star hotel when he was offered the chance to lead Mr. Bombana’s latest lounge, he upped and left his life in Milan for this once in a lifetime opportunity. Dario is cooler than the other side of the pillow as he effortlessly glides around behind the bar, conjuring up cocktails like a wizard. While he might whip up a charmingly smooth Manhattan, Dario knows that ambiance and conversation are just as important as the cocktails served in a quality lounge and will happily engage in discourse with any patron who pulls up a seat.     

While searching for things to critique, only the relatively small size of the lounge and sometimes questionable music selection popped out at me, meaning you should book a table soon because this version of Otto e Mezzo will undoubtedly have guests lined up for weeks in no time.