/ Reviews / Italian
That's Amore!
by Ruth Waldron
on Friday, January 28, 2011 12:00 AM
How often have you gone out for dinner at a hotel and left slightly underwhelmed? As with any meal that comes from a large and busy kitchen, it's difficult to get that personal touch. However, there are always exceptions to this rule and Ba¬silico, in the InterContinental Shanghai Expo, is one of those special places.
Basilico takes its name from the Italian for "basil". Unlike other cultures where the herb may have connotations of hatred and Satan, in Italy it is commonly considered a symbol of love. Taking in the sweeping views of the LuPu Bridge from the wood-paneled interior, it's certainly not a bad spot for an intimate tête-à-tête. The atmosphere is comfortable and relaxed, and the view of the open kitchen provides an interesting diversion without being intrusive.
Extensive and exhaustive, the menu is best viewed with a cool and refreshing glass of Prosecco in hand to chill the fevered brain. Starting with the antipasti buffet, you are faced with a mesmerizing array of fresh seafood, cold meats, marinated vegetables and soft breads: depending on your stamina, select one (RMB98) or two (RMB148) items from each category.
Don't expect to be hopping up and down all night, as most courses are served at the table. Choose from a wide range of grilled meats, pastas, risottos, salads and pizzas. Chef Roberto Mancini is an enthusiastic advocate of slow-cooking techniques, maintaining that this method preserves the juices and nutrients better than any other. Proving his point, the 180-gram fillet of beef (RMB248) is cooked for five hours, emerging as wonderfully succulent meat. Just as good with fish, the chef's seafood-studded risotto (RMB198) is a golden mound that provides forkful after forkful of comfort eating.
Importing an impressive variety of wines from all over the world, Basilico has a vintage for everything. An Italian red, the Masciarelli Montepulciano D'Abruzzo is warm and fruity, at a wallet-pleasing price of RMB300 per bottle or RMB65 per glass. If you prefer white, a crisp Col D'Orcia Sant Antimo Pinot Grigio Toscana works well with risottos and seafood (RMB410 per bottle, RMB90 per glass).
Perhaps it's because Basilico catered for so many international visitors during Shanghai Expo, but this Italian set-up has an extra helping of panache that is seldom found in hotel restaurants.
The Bottom Line: Basil may not be known as an aphrodisiac, but Basilico has the right ambiance for an evening of amore.
