/ Reviews / Italian
Oh Brother!
by Tom Lee
on Friday, May 13, 2011 12:00 AM
Most Italian restaurants are built on more than pizza and pasta, and Fratelli is no different. They've built their foundations on more than just margherita and spaghetti. There's also wine.
Drinking and dining go hand in hand, like two brothers, or (perhaps more accurately) several brothers at a college fraternity, rambunctious and rowdy. Deriving its name from this familial bond, Fratelli is all about offering a dual experience of Italian food and drinks. Owner Jack Wu imports the wines, while Executive Chef Roberto Molinari uses his years of experience cooking his native land's cuisine to rustle up authentic grub.
Seasonally in tune, Roberto Molinari wanted to make the cuisine "simple for summer". True to his word, none of the dishes are overly elaborate, each containing just enough ingredients to make it palatable. Garden Greens (RMB28) is perhaps the most basic, composed of whatever organic vegetables are available and drizzled in balsamic dressing.
All the pasta is made in-house, from the vegetarian Tagliatelle with Saffron (RMB68) to the seafood delights of the Linguine with Prawns (RMB98). Alternatively, there's a moist Black Ink Risotto with Clams and Cuttlefish (RMB78).
Serving the Roasted Beef Fillet "Black Angus" (RMB188) with a zesty gremolata is definitely going down the right track for these humid days, but the garnish could look less like runny mucus. Another meaty option, the Pan-fried Lamb Chops (RMB118) are stripped down to the essentials, with a simple sauce and grilled vegetables.
Classic desserts like the Tiramisu (RMB38) are offered but the best thing on the menu is probably the selection of home-made ice-creams, made using fresh fruit. Of especial note, the pairing of the banana variety with Hot Chocolate Cake (RMB38) is a classic combo.
Fratelli's glass façade makes for a sun-drenched interior in which to sip from the choice of wines and munch on the fundamentals of Italian cuisine. And, if you dare to venture outside, there's a pleasant, Zen-garden-esque space to soak in the UV.
Mid-range Italian with simply cooked essentials.
