/ Reviews / Italian
Loosen that Belt
by Ruth Waldron
on Friday, January 21, 2011 12:00 AM
When eating at an Italian restaurant, it's always a good sign to see numerous Italian families and couples among the patrons: Gennaro is one of those places. The menu quite deservedly claims to provide "the authentic taste of Italy", serving up amazing versions of Italian classics, many made from family recipes.
Chef Roberto Bernasconi is a hands-on kind of Chef who likes to spend time with the customer, making suggestions depending on a whim or a special request. His passion and Italian charm is evident in his desire to make the clientele happy. Originally from the southern city of Bari, in the "heel" of Italy, China has been his home for the last six years. Recently moving from Qingdao to Shanghai to work at Gennaro, he still maintains contacts up north to ensure the quality of the beef on the menu. Many of the ingredients are imported from Italy, but a healthy proportion is locally sourced.
The starters range from salads (RMB48-108), to cold and warm appetizers (RMB68-128), to carpacci (RMB88-108), to soups (RMB48-78), providing something for every taste. The Salami, Mortadella and Parma Ham with Melon are light and tasty, and set off perfectly a cool, crisp glass of Prosecco. A more unusual combination, the Chargrilled Calamari with Fava Bean Puree is hearty and warming for this time of the year, as is the silken Pumpkin Soup.
Comfortable seating and opulent decor add to the feeling of indulgence, but make sure you sit on the dimly lit side of the room if you don't want anyone to see you loosening your belt - especially after such sumptuous delights as the Seared Tuna with Mint Crust or the Fillet of Beef, both cooked to pink perfection and teamed with a surprisingly delicious puree of potato and broccoli.
Grilled meats at Gennaro tend to run from RMB98-288, and fish from RMB168-188.
If you think that you can bear to have another bite, then the chocolate fondant is a must (desserts are RMB20-58). This is made to the exact recipe used by the chef's grandmother and in this she certainly excelled. The crumbly crust breaks open to reveal a thick, rich, liquid chocolate center that brings to mind just one word: divine. Finally, just when you think that you couldn't possibly eat or drink another thing, a homemade limoncello or basil liqueur is proffered - don't pass it up.
The Bottom Line: Like a fine lasagna, this restaurant is layer after layer of delicious dishes.
