Back to Basics

1 Photo

by Raphael Seghin
on Friday, September 09, 2011 12:00 AM

Issimo has been opened for over 3 years, which is a respectable amount of time considering Shanghai's revolving door attitude towards restaurants. Its longevity could be attributed to several factors; the boutique hotel which houses it, JIA, playing an undeniable part, but the lunch crowd attests to the consistent quality. With the return of Chef Enzo Carbone, Issimo has opted for more traditional family-style servings which showcase the simple authenticity of the dishes. To further enforce their point, they've imported a hand-beaten copper pizza oven from Naples, brick by brick, and made important changes to the menu. "Some restaurants may be tempted to make changes to their cuisine for local marketing reasons, but we insist on staying true to our origins," says Richard Yap, Issimo's GM. Chef Enzo strengthens the argument, stating: "If I can't cook the exact same dish as I would in Italy, I won't do it here". The Chef's passion for his craft is evident, and he takes his self-appointed role as an ambassador to Italian cuisine quite seriously.

The restaurant itself emits a comfortable, yet classy, contemporary vibe. Wide chairs, enveloped in somber red leather, dominate each wooden table and the 12 meter long olive-wood bar. Beyond it, an open kitchen allows dinners to further appreciate (and inspect) the preparation of their chosen dishes. Rustic furniture completes the wood-and-brick-themed style, earning the restaurant its "modern chalet" moniker.

Decorations and location would be naught if the food didn't speak for itself, but Chef Enzo's pledge of authenticity transmutes through his dishes. Besides their Pranzo set lunches, available on week days with a choice of 3 or 4 course menus, Issimo offers a large range of authentic Neapolitan chilled and grilled appetizers, a wide variety of outstanding pizzas, and a choice selection of meat, seafood, pastas and of course, desserts. Their lunch sets, which alternate every day, offer a cheaper, yet equally filling sample of Issimo's cooking. Pizzas like the Alla Diavola, prepared with Napoli salami, tomato, mozzarella cheese and basil could easily fill a hungry diner. It also is a dish which perfectly showcases both the Chef and the restaurant's core values. Fresh, simple, authentic, delicious. A generous amount of olive oil is added to the four main ingredients atop a thin, crusty base, combining perfectly and allowing each taste to stand out. For the 4 course menu, mains would include dishes like the Australian Sirloin Beef with Rocket, Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese and Aged Balsamic Vinegar, or Pan-Roasted White Cod Fish with Zucchini, Mint and Fresh Italian Parsley. Delectable gelatos are available for dessert.

Issimo certainly seems to have succeeded in its quest to return to basics. A great location, tasty and authentic dishes and a chef who's personality is as enjoyable as his food. These are the reasons why the restaurant still stands strong where many others have failed, and hopefully will continue to do so. In the meanwhile, one could do worse than trying out one of Issimo's decidedly fresh dishes.