/ Reviews / Italian
Machine Mania at Macalle
by Tom Lee
on Friday, June 04, 2010 12:00 AM
It's been three years since the original Macalle reared its head in Shanghai. Slowly slinking its way closer to the center of the city, the venue is following in the footsteps of fellow Italiian restaurant, Bella Napoli, and opening a second location. Three floors of dark brown leather chairs, auburn tables and white slate placemats whisper casual but understated refinement.
During the jolly month of June and Macalle's soft opening phase, all food is 12 percent off (not including drinks) for both lunch and dinner a la carte. Set-lunch lovers can encounter paninis, salads, pastas, pizzas and meat from RMB38 to RMB98. Perhaps the best news for raw meat eaters though, is the impending arrival of salmon and beef tartar in mid-to-late summer.
A whole arsenal of Italian-made machines has been installed in the kitchen to facilitate homemade fare. All pizzas are baked in a traditional pizza oven - creating that oh-so-desirable thin crust that obsesses Shanghai's pizzerias - and are priced around the RMB70 mark. A good example of Macalle's doughy offerings is the meaty Italian sausage, covered in rich cheese and slightly crunchy onions, though the chef could do with being more open handed with his ingredients.
Sorbet is also frozen in-house, at a bargain price of RMB15 for two scoops. Flavors vary according to the fruits of the season but currently it serves a sweet strawberry and a mild mango, with chocolate, milk and banana flavors on the horizon. Fresh ingredients are pureed and then amalgamated with water - the more water, the thicker the sorbet. A few super secret spices are thrown into the mix and - hey presto! - you've made your own sorbet.
Though some types of pasta also emerge from a marvelous machine - including tagliatelle and ravioli - spaghetti is still sourced from importers. Between al dente and overcooked, the spaghetti with wild fungi's main appeal comes from the juicy mushrooms that enliven the dish. No such saving grace occurs for the Beef Carpaccio, which tastes alright but is rather bland, despite parmesan shavings and crunchy celery - though mercifully it avoids tasting fresh from the freezer, an all too common faux pas in Italian restaurants around Shanghai.
Much more successful is the grilled lamb in red wine sauce (RMB96), accompanied by a blend of mashed and sautéed potatoes, and a stack of roasted vegetables. The meat is easily sliced to reveal a nice pink middle - a treat for medium-rare aficionados - that oozes bloody juices.
The Bottom Line: House-made food and smart interiors.
