/ Reviews / Italian
A Taste of Little Italy
by Jaki Faulkner
on Friday, April 01, 2011 12:00 AM
Nolita's Domenico Patruno is as passionate about food and its presentation as any self-respecting chef from Bari should be. While for many Shanghai venues the six-month mark signals closing time, Nolita has managed to keep playful, with hearty, well-presented fare and a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
An early starter, Patruno began to make the journey from washing his mamma's pans to professional chef at the age of 14, with a career that took in cruise ships, Miami and a couple of years at the Westin, Shanghai thrown in for good measure.
The chef never stops greeting his clientele and it's warming to see Nolita's staff embrace each customer. The amount of Italians who spin through the doors after 9pm - in true Italian style - is impressive, and each and every one is greeted with smiles.
Expect to pay from RMB68-98 for classic pizzas, and even though Nolita wasn't allowed to house a wood-fired pizza oven, their pizza attains a nice, crispy-thin base.
The Mushroom Risotto (RMB98) arrives in good shape, cooked authentically al dente and topped with truffles imported from Italy. Equally impressive are the Squid Ink Tortelacci (RMB88), stuffed with shrimp and ricotta cheese; and the light, clean tastes of the Norwegian Cod (RMB178).
To accompany these diverse dishes, Nolita has a roster of frequently changing guest wines every month. The current favorites are a cheeky Bulgarian Pinot Noir and a crisp, fruity Prosecco.
Diners can expect a pretty good meal all round: Chocolate Pudding (RMB48) with vanilla ice cream is the dessert every child dreams of, so get stuck in sipping the hot, oozing chocolate liquid through straws. Top it off with an obligatory, homemade limoncello and a fantastic espresso to launch you out the door.
Nolita scores high on atmosphere and food, bursting with evocative décor and rich flavors, dousing plenty of truffle oil over almost everything. Showmanship and service with gusto are clearly the bread and butter of Chef Domenico Patruno.
The Bottom Line: No skimping at Nolita on ingredients: this place is rambunctious and utterly charming.
