/ Reviews / Italian
Be a Part of It: New York, New York
by Tom Lee
on Friday, March 26, 2010 12:00 AM
The Bund riverside has its fair share of brand buildings. There's Three on the Bund, Bund18 and M on the Bund all lining up to serve you in white gloves and penguin jackets. Settling away from these august but over-crowded environs, the new XY One complex hopes to bring a more dining-centric concept to the premise, erecting a venue that will tower over JingAn District's restaurants.
Despite the irrepressible connotations of New York Italians as Mafia gangsters toting Tommy guns and hanging out the windows of shiny black Fords, Pronto reflects more the kind of nostalgia for the campagna present in many Italian-American establishments, with its earthy color scheme and countryside landscape pictures. Looking in through the curving glass front, it's hard to picture a Cosa Nostra consigliore slurping spaghetti, as he discusses the latest money-laundering racket. Instead, it hearkens back to a pastoral Italy, full of familial cheer and hearty meals.
It's in the mains where the full-throttle flavor comes through the most. The crispy-coated chicken breast of the juicy parmigiana (RMB64) is covered in thick cheese and tomato sauce, over-awing the stomach in its take-no-prisoners attack on the senses. It's a dish that leaves you a willing captive of the forceful ingredients, which are by no means subtle but are a gratifying indulgence. Lasagna (RMB68) is also full of gusto but the mince lacks enough assertion to be of any note - as a vegetarian dish, it would be just as good.
For cheese lovers, the gnocchi with gorgonzola (RMB72) is an essential eat. The blue cheese is rich and creamy with a distinct edge that piques the palate into raptures. As an integral component of the dish, the gnocchi treads the fine line between insipid dough ball and glutinous chew without a qualm.
Evidently a food funambulist, Executive Chef Mathew Nicolosi can also turn on the delicate touch when necessary, be it starter or dessert. His calamari appetizer is cut into small rings, the super soft squid encased by a bready crust adroitly tempered with peppercorns. At the other end of the meal, the thick chocolate mousse is topped with a raspberry coulis, blueberries and cream to form a richly satisfying peroration to the heavy but delicious meal.
The Bottom Line: In a city heaving with Italian imitations, Pronto aims for the more unique New York style and hits it right between the eyes.
