/ Reviews / Italian
Sette-ling Somewhere New
by Tom Lee
on Friday, May 27, 2011 12:00 AM
Transplanted from its old location on HuaShan Road, Settebello has come to join the big boys of AnFu Road, bringing with it the same chef and the same menu, but a different owner. Fans of the old restaurant are no doubt shedding tears of joy that the place hasn't just died out. Instead, it has simply downsized. No longer spread over the expanse of a whole building, it's now confined to just a single dining room and a couple of tables out on the miniscule patio.
It's certainly a lot cozier in its new incarnation. Though you will be rubbing elbows with your neighbors, there's a simple elegance to the place, with floral pictures on the wall and real roses blooming outside in the herb-filled garden, which is visible through a pair of open French doors. Eating here is like eating at home with a friendly family of countryside Italians. Around 10 or so tables are arranged inside the modest space.
Everything is cooked with the same pleasant charm that characterizes the décor. A house staple, Fresh Tomato & Basil Soup (RMB40) is flecked with herb leaves and a few small chunks of tomato that have escaped the blender blades to give it a bit more textural character. An undertone of cheese adds richness to the already creamy mix.
Ingredients are thrust with a carefree abandon into all the dishes in the bluff manner of the rural homemaker. Carbonara (RMB78) is loaded with prosciutto, parmesan and - in particularly liberal handfuls - mushrooms.
Though only six in number, the pizzas manage to run the gamut of tastes, from the staid Fresh Tomato & Herb (RMB68), to the un-Italian Hawaii Ham & Pineapple (RMB75), to the more original Smoked Salmon Pizza (RMB88) topped with Dijon cream cheese.
The menu tries to give as much variety as possible while limiting itself to just six dishes per section across salads, main courses, pizzas and pastas. Dessert is even more pared down, with a trio of three RMB40 options: fruity House-made Cheesecake, Crème Brûlée and the old stalwart Tiramisu.
Settebello may be just a relocation of a concept that has been in Shanghai for several years, reconstituting a chef, a menu and even a name. However, it's the snug setting that really defines the restaurant; its welcoming modesty that makes it a congenial choice for a quiet meal.
Full of homely warmth.
