/ Reviews / Italian
High-street Italian
by Tom Lee
on Friday, June 17, 2011 12:00 AM
How to move forward from the Shanghai Expo has been a concern sloshing around the minds of many restaurateurs who occupied the site during last year's six-month exhibition. For Palmiro Petrini, the excitement of hosting Chinese and Italian political figures, including the mayor of Rome, only served to sharpen his ambition to progress to a more central city location.
Snapping up a spot on NanJing W. Road, between ubiquitous newly opened high-street stores - GAP, H&M and American Eagle Outfitters have all found a home here - there will certainly be no lack of opportunity for Mr Petrini's Tivoli Italian Restaurant & Lounge Bar to take advantage of foot traffic. Judging by the size of the venture, he has banked on the address bringing in high volumes of clientele. The 700-square-meter expanse of tables feels almost eerie in this early opening stage of the project, when only a few seats are occupied by the curious passers-by. In one corner, a piano lies dormant, awaiting the parties and special events that are set to materialize once the management has a handle on the food.
Tivoli is named for Palmiro Petrini's home town, a place which is famed less for its food and more for it scenic attractions, such as the gorgeous Villa Adriana, built in the Second Century for the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Dishes at the restaurant are not quite as architecturally grand as the ruins of its namesake, but are served with a modicum of panache - for instance, the Classic Tiramisu (RMB40), which comes in a stylish glass with a curved stem, the mountain of whipped mascarpone cresting over the lip and doused in dark rum.
When it comes to pasta, the chef has a tendency to over-salt, as though desperate to try and coax just a little more flavor from his ingredients. This proves unnecessary for the savory Porcini Mushroom Ravioli (RMB188) but all too comprehendible for the Fettuccine with Duck Ragout (RMB78). Served in a thin, weak sauce, it's the puny child in a boisterous Italian family. Adding a bit more zing, the traditional Beef Fillet Carpaccio (RMB55) is squirted with a fair few lemons and a splash of balsamic, accompanied by slithers of parmesan and arugula leaves. Though not inventive, it's a substantial, which is surely the perfect remedy for a weary shopper's feet.
Nothing too grand or gourmet, this is an ideally located rest stop for those perusing the stores.
