Koyama

1 Photo

by Denise O' Riordan
on Monday, May 12, 2008 12:00 AM

Located at dining hotspot Xin Tian Di, Koyama runs the risk of being just another eatery to add to the long list. Added to this challenge is the wealth of venues in Shanghai that specialize in Japanese cuisine. Somehow, Koyama manages to overcome these obstacles, and sets itself apart from the crowd.

The décor is in traditional, minimal Japanese style, complete with dark varnished wood and low-lying ceilings. Naturally, shoes come off at the door and seating is provided by colourful cushions laid out on wooden benches. Kneeling is not required, with plenty of legroom underneath each table. Seating is partitioned, making this a suitable and intimate spot for small groups or couples, while large groups can hire one of the private rooms.

The menu is lengthy yet comprehensive, offering explanations in both English and Chinese. Usually, high-end dining calls for high-end pricing, but here, the set lunch offers a cost-effective way of sampling dishes.

I opted for the ''shokodu'' set (125RMB). The steamed egg custard had an interesting salty flavour, but was suitably light. The ''nikujaga'', boiled fatty beef with potatoes and carrots, was a surprisingly hearty stew-like dish, the broth containing a hint of sweetness. The tempura prawns and vegetables were perfectly delicate, given a kick by the ginger infused dipping sauce.

Chiefly, this is a seafood lover's dream, both due to the quantity, as a quick flick through the menu will attest, and its quality. The grilled salmon was fresh and flakey, my taste-buds tweaked by the citric lemon. The sashimi, consisting of tuna, yellow tail and bloody clam, was of impeccable quality and freshness, the tenderness of the bloody clam welcome given its daunting appearance.

Koyama serves up a refreshing dining experience, in a city over-run with all-you-can-eat establishments that lack in quality. Suitable for connoisseurs, it is also totally accessible to newcomers, and is sure to be popular with locals, expats, and the many tourists who pass through.