/ Reviews / Japanese
Japan’s Two Faces
by Elizabeth Painter
on Friday, September 10, 2010 12:00 AM
Mondo is a sushi bar with two faces. From 5:30pm to 11:30pm, Chef Yoshitada Taniguchi wields his sushi knife behind the sturdy wooden bar like a kendo master; but as darkness falls, the paper cupboard doors slide open to reveal a vast array of sakes and plum wines.
Mr. Taniguchi is well connected in the Japanese culinary world and often travels to Los Angeles to share his 22 years of experience with students at the Sushi Chef Institute. His confidence shows in the simplicity of the menu, which relies on the freshest fish flown in from Japan. These spend just two days in between examination at the market and arrival on the table.
The ingredients are not just fresh: they are also beautifully plated, a prime example being the three-piece nigiri set of maguro tuna, flatfish and the chef's favorite, otoro tuna (RMB80). Unlike factory-like, conveyor belt sushi, the fish is not neatly clipped and stretched over a giant, stodgy rice block, but generously cut and draped upon a small, subtly seasoned rice ball.
A six-set sampler of ball-shaped nigiri (RMB125) pierced with cocktail sticks is one of Mondo's few nods to new-fangled sushi techniques. The tiny shaving of lemon rind on the salmon ball is a perfectly judged example of delicious Japanese simplicity. Another revelation is the squid nigiri, cut so thick it's pretty much impossible to chew - and yes, that's a good thing. The longer it's chewed, the more the squid's buttery richness oozes into the mouth.
While it's possible to go on and on about the sushi, that would sell the kitchen's accomplishments short. Backstage, a small team of Chinese chefs work the grills, ovens and deep fat fryers to prepare the daily special. The plump, purple, stuffed eggplant cooked Kyoto-style with a thick smoky miso sauce (RMB55) is as good as it sounds, boding well for other specials that may follow in its wake.
Oozing authenticity, there isn't a whiff of fusion or ‘Japanese-style' cuisine about Mondo, from the food right down to the bar's alcohol selections. If you've got a hankering for mayonnaise and cream-cheese-stuffed rolls, Mondo isn't for you; but if you're after a less heavy-handed approach, look no further than this small slice of sushi heaven.
The Bottom Line: Shanghai does Japanese fusion confusion very well but if it's authentic, pure Japan you're after, head to Mondo.
