/ Reviews / Japanese
Iz-a-keeper
by Tom Lee
on Friday, January 07, 2011 12:00 AM
Japanese izakaya may have been the starting point for Ohana, but it has become something much more unique than the casual style of bar it takes its inspiration from. The restaurant is permeated with Nippon style, from the cushioned, wooden banquettes to the pair of private rooms. Japanese fetishes are laid along the window sills and the shelves: Astro Boy, Optimus Prime and Mario all gaze proudly down as patrons devour a piece of raw fish, or two.
True to its origins, Ohana maintains a selection of sake amongst the plum wines, shochu, beer, Japanese-influenced cocktails, and New and Old Word wines. Subdivided under six categories, the sake samples from a range of base ingredients and flavors, priced between RMB280 to RMB1100 per large, 720-milliliter bottle - though there are smaller servings for the more pedestrian drinker.
The mark of el Willy is unmistakably branded on the menu, with several instances of Spanish cuisine bursting brazenly forth. However, it's the Japanese options that engender a fresh gleam in the hungry eye. Even typical offerings like an assorted platter of sashimi (RMB158) offer diners something a little more gourmet than the norm, mixing conventional slices of yellowtail, tuna and prawn with the much-prized toro. This specialty inevitably jacks up the price of any item, including the Toro Teraki (RMB140), a do-it-yourself seaweed wrap constituting four pieces of tuna belly, a selection of condiments including wasabi and ginger, and a few sheets of seaweed. It's a great excuse to play with your food.
Also hitting the top end of Ohana's prices, the Tomato & Mozzarella Izakaya Style (RMB138) uses good quality basics but is still a pretty typical mix of cheese, pine nuts and arugula. At this price, skip it and select instead three of the delicious, smaller-sized oddities, like the rich Monkfish Liver (RMB40). Cooked with a bit of sake and served in a ponzu sauce of soya, vinegar and citrus juices, the monk fish recalls the velvety texture of goose liver but has its own, seaside savor. Accompany this with the Braised Pork Belly like in Kagoshima (RMB40): three big chunks of pork belly, cooked in the inimitable style of Chef Saito Yoshitaka.
With the Western wines and Spanish dishes, one could conceivably come just to enjoy el Willy's cuisine within a different setting. What's the benefit, though, in passing up the chance to down different types of sake and munch on well-presented, delicious Japanese dishes?
The Bottom Line: Willy Moreno scores another hit with this Japanese-influenced but essentially unique eatery.
