Tian Jia

1 Photo

by Rosy Meek
on Monday, May 05, 2008 12:00 AM

Tian Jia at Xintiandi is a real refuge from the ruckus of Shanghai on a bustling weekday afternoon. A shrinking violet amongst the brash boutiques, it sits unassumingly back from the road along a boardwalk canopied with green leaves and flowers encouraging busy bees to throw their troubles to the curb. This oasis of calm is reflected in the light and airy dining space with sunbeams refracting through the glass and bouncing of the green beams, catching the teardrop crystal chandeliers. Over-embellished? Not at all. The dining space is soothing and understated with the sense that you're sitting in a close friend's conservatory.

From fantastic landscaping and water features flows a subliminal freshness that subdues the city smog surrounding Shanghai's suited and booted. All are bare necessities it turns out, because they're soon to be small fry to a much bigger fish. Tuna or Toro to be exact brought here by special license from Japan offering first class cuts of succulent fish. The O-Toro sashimi 78RMB is a fattier slice of fish, pink and fleshy, its marbling offset by the grainy ceramic plate beneath it. The Chu-Toro is lighter and leaner. Wasabi and soy sauce are standard but really only standing on ceremony. The taste is so subtle and extraordinary any additives would be bad-mannered. Using them, however, demonstrates the incredible refinement of Japanese cuisine, the flavours acquiescing to each other perfectly. All are on offer at lunchtime with complimentary miso soup, tofu and dessert for 78RMB. Laid on a large platter, the Nigiri is filling and satisfying served with shavings of ginger. Huge claws of steamed Taruba crab are meaty and delicious served with a handy crab fork to muscle out every morsel 128RMB. Alternatively enjoy the chef's choice menu, offering an array of dishes and great value at 250RMB.

With such an emphasis on serving the freshest ingredients of the highest quality, Tian Jia makes the art of Japanese cuisine feel like a walk in the park.