/ Reviews / Korean
Sign Reads: Please Come Back Later
by Ruth Waldron
on Friday, November 26, 2010 12:00 AM
Tucked away in the newly opened JiaShan Market, Annion Kitchen is one of many recently opened eateries in the eco-friendly themed development. True to the recycling ethos of the buildings' owners, the interior is cleverly paneled with rough, reclaimed wooden boards, which lend warmth and texture to the otherwise sparse but hip décor of the dining room. The overall ambiance is low-key and calm with a kind of retro industrial feel. Concrete floors and metal chairs, in theory, should be cold and uncomfortable, but in practice make for an uncluttered and slick finish.
This attractive ensemble of features is run by a couple of Korean restaurateurs whose aim is to bring the true taste of Korea to Shanghai. The menu is presented in a brown, manila-envelope-like mail - a quirky touch, but the choice is limited and the food is somewhat overworked.
One of the house specialties, pork and kimchi with tofu (RMB79) reads well and looks great. However, by the time the meat, kimchi and tofu are arranged in attractive stacks, and presented on an elegant earthenware platform, it's cold; the flavors are good but the ingredients would be best eaten hot, straight from the pan. Each stack of tofu contains a single piece of pork and a bit of cabbage, which is too sparse to make a comforting serving.
Meatballs, though, do arrive hot straight from the pan, but are fairly bland and oily; unaccompanied by a side dish, they prove uninspiring (RMB59).
There is no doubt as to the professionalism and commitment of the owners and the chef - this is evident in the attention to detail, extending to both the presentation and design. Unfortunately, there is still some work that needs to be done, as the dish of spicy beef with vegetables and rice is, again, cold (RMB59). Yes, the flavors are there but simply do not illustrate enough the inspiration that seems to lie just a little too far beneath the surface.
What is scrumptious is the delicious hot pomello, lemon and honey tea (RMB40) - a Korean staple and wonderfully warming on a cold evening, if a little pricey.
All in all, the owners are well placed to provide exciting modern Korean cuisine, but as much as the JiaShan Market area is still a work in progress, so too is Annion Kitchen.
The Bottom Line: Korean home-cooking with potential in a slick and stylish setting.
