/ Reviews / Mediterranean
Same Face, Different Place
by Tom Lee
on Friday, February 12, 2010 12:00 AM
Having chucked in the towel on GuYang Road, Elia has been nestling in the Crowne Plaza Century Park since September. Dressed in shades of brown and beige, pictures of Grecian and Mediterranean scenes occupy spaces along the restaurant's walls, while through the glass-fronted kitchen, Chef Marios Papadopoulos can be seen ducking and diving amongst the kitchen's appliances.
He emerges first with an unabashedly garlic-filled Tzatziki (RMB32). "I believe if you like garlic, you might as well go all the way," justifies Marios with a smile. Exhibiting a similar single-mindedness, the Saganaki Feta Cheese (RMB68) is lightly fried in olive oil to create a slightly greasy delight for feta fans - though the cheese's natural saltiness is considerably strong without any palliative.
Flambéed in ouzo, the plump Saganaki Shrimps (RMB108) are one of the best items on the menu. Simmered with spicy tomato sauce and green peppers, the ingredients are all instilled with the juices of the peppery condiment, marrying the disparate items into a stew-like composition worthy of an "opa!" salute.
Individual portions of Moussaka (RMB78) are pre-prepared and then cooked in the oven as per demand. Creamy béchamel sauce and soft-skinned eggplant are layered with potato and slightly dry beef mince to shape Elia's version of this world-famed Greek dish. The Baked Lamb Leg is slightly overdone but has great flavor, the potatoes cooked alongside absorbing the potent savory juices.
Dealing the delicious death blow, the monumental Elia Golden Pyramid (RMB68) is enough to topple any constitution. Thick puff pastry entombs rich, imported Greek chocolate, accompanied by a scoop of sweet vanilla ice cream. This final course will devastate even the most devout dessert devotee with its merciless sweetness, firmly drawing the meal to a sugary close.
The Bottom Line: Cuisine that stays true to its roots by bringing typical Grecian flavors to the fore.
