LYNN

1 Photo

by Rosy Meek
on Monday, April 21, 2008 12:00 AM

East meets West; A cliché in Shanghai that reverberates around the dining scene to the point of becoming hum-drum. It is fact that in this city fusion cuisine attracts foodies like flypaper. Shanghainese fusion, for a time, was no exception with most restaurants of its ilk heaping up in the high-end hotels dotted along Huang Pu. Not this one. Lynn has pipped the competition to the post by opening away from the fine-dining fashion-conscious of the Bund staking a claim all of their own near Nanjing Xi Lu; a location long stale-mated in terms of a remarkable restaurant.
With location on its side, Lynn offers a new take on Shanghainese cuisine offering an affordable menu and artistic ambience whilst cutting back on the culinary culprits that make the average ex-pat cringe. Dishes are determinedly health-conscious without losing their authenticity or alias of 'modern Shanghai cuisine'. Shredded chicken with bean jelly in lemon sauce is nicely marinated, the textures contrasting with the accompanying glass noodles 28RMB. The Braised spare ribs in sweet vinegar sauce are placed beside a knife and fork, a chivalrous touch to counter chopstick clammy-handedness 45RMB. Shanghai Crispy Duck with milk bread and roasted ginger is a coup at 45RMB. The codename for this menu is simplicity, English translations and photographs allow ex-pats to enter into Shanghainese cuisine without the fear of being ambushed by a rogue bull-frog or bird's nest, although they are available for the more intrepid diner. The result keeps both sides happy with a heady mixture of international and local clientele browsing the comprehensible menu.
A wide open-plan dining space is countered by wooden paneling with some separating the space into semi-private booths. Ornamental carving is mimicked in the ornate lampshades and appliqué celing creating a classy Western style setting with Chinese elements. With a fantastic weekend buffet offer for a startling 68RMB LYNN presents the best of both worlds in the heart of Shanghai.