/ Reviews / Shanghai

Double Your Pleasure

by Katherine Man
on Friday, August 12, 2011 12:00 AM

After the loss of two former restaurants, one named Le Garcon Chinois and the other Yin, owner Takashi managed to stay in business through some savvy restructuring, reincarnating the two into a fusion establishment. Quietly tucked away in a niche setting, understatement is clearly Takashi's hallmark, as the re-launch was initially kept hidden.

The lack of commercialization has made this place a warm oasis for those in the know. Inside a dimly-lit dining room, the serenity of the dynastic period is emulated using traditional décor, such as antiques, silk lanterns and Japanese wooden screens. A private, enclosed tea room provides the most evocative ambiance: although this may be booked in advance by customers, it is largely a private area for the owner; through a sheet of glass, customers can usually see Takashi's mother waiting for her personal guests in a kimono, or Takashi himself relaxing with a cup of oolong tea.

Considering the fancy interior, it is surprising to find affordable prices on the leather- and silk-bound menus. Combining a mix of Shanghainese, Cantonese and Sichuan style dishes, the high-quality ingredients speak for themselves. With the Vietnamese Spring Rolls (RMB28), don't expect to taste greasy oil and the ever-present MSG found in many Chinese cuisines. There are no tricks of the trade here, just a light texture of beef, vegetables and shrimp.

Unable to resist throwing in a pinch of Oriental mysticism, the menu tends to play up the symbolism of its dishes. Eight Treasures Duck (RMB88) purports to bring luck, which is typically associated in Chinese tradition with the number eight.

Catering for both Eastern and Western palates, exotic spices are clearly marked on the menu. For those who aren't a fan of red hot chilies, the Shrimps Stir-fried with Ginger Shallots (RMB98) combines perfectly with a dose of a light Sichuan sauce, using spices that aren't too overpowering.

While the Walnut Pastries (RMB20) may take a while to cook, it is well worth the wait. The savory outer layers complement the surprise stored inside: a warm, chopped, candied walnut filling.

Takashi's passion for musical entertainment manifests itself in the thrice weekly jazz performance, making the experience an ideal date spot, while the calm ambience is reserved enough for a family meal.

With concealed treasures all around, prepare to be seduced by Takashi's charms yourself.

 

View Yin Par Le Garcon Chinois Information

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