Imperial Ambitions

1 Photo

by Raphael Seghin
on Friday, August 26, 2011 12:00 AM

While naming your Sichuan/Cantonese restaurant after an empire dominating the Indian subcontinent might initially be a strange choice, the subtle hints become more obvious when you learn that the Mauryan Empire was, at the time, rival in size and power to the Greek and Persian empires to the west. As Mark, the restaurant's manager, explains: ‘Maurya grew to dominate most of south Asia, and we aim to do the same for Shanghai'. Ambitious words perhaps, yet the restaurant could possibly live up to its manager's expectations.

Occupying a small, square building on the corner of MengZi and Liyuan road, the bare, industrial look of the building reveals little of the restaurant's interior. The restaurant fills up both floors of the building; the walls and curtains both portraying alternate shades of a light blue hue as its palate. A large peacock looms near the entrance, perched within a circular separation in the wall, presiding over both the main dining room and the small anti-chamber near the main door. On the second floor, paintings of traditional scenes in a modern style give the space a more cheerful, younger feel.

The introductory dish, Marinated Water Chestnuts in Rice Wine (RMB39), was both refreshing and bland. With a similar texture to apples, yet with less taste, water chestnuts rely on the wine to make it interesting, which, in this case, was too subtle to notice. A simpler, yet more successful dish was the aptly named Sliced Salty Beef with Spicy Sauce (RMB61). What the name forgets to mention is the interesting addition of very fresh (still green and bundled in their branch) Sichuan peppers. Spicy, like most dishes on offer, yet not overwhelmingly so. The same cannot be said about the Fiery Hot Shredded Pork with Minced Chili (RMB79), so much so that the restaurant offers the dish for free for any soul brave enough to finish it. Marinated in chili oil for four days, then entirely covered with chili flakes, this one is not for the faint of heart.
It's the dishes where Maurya decide to experiment that linger on the palate, for better or worst. Diced Goose Liver Gongbao Style (RMB163) is an intriguing proposition. With a close resemblance to its more traditional inspiration, a bite quickly cracks the outer shell and reveals the goose liver within. Unfortunately, as any Foie Gras connoisseur will tell you, quality is of utmost importance, and without it, the dish is not much more than fried fat. Despite its name, Classic Spicy Bean Curd with Pork Brain (RMB59) is a much more accomplished endeavor; the texture of the brain closely resembles that of tofu, and the two blend together seamlessly, while the taste is subtle enough not to overwhelm curious diners.

With a mix of classic and less traditional dishes, Maurya presents itself as worthy new addition to the dining scene. Patrons will return for the enjoyable service and some of the more memorable dishes, yet, as with any new restaurant, Maurya still needs to develop its identity. Credit is due, mostly for originality, but the best dishes were the more traditional ones.