/ Reviews / Spanish
Iberian Tradition
by Raphael Seghin
on Friday, November 25, 2011 12:00 AM
Fresh off the heels of the successful and recently closed Mesa/Manifesto, owner Charles Cabell has been a busy man. Having had a hand in running a variety of different cuisines in his previous projects, the Brazilian restaurateur this time decided to venture towards traditional Spanish food. Most of Mesa’s staff followed him, and he picked up Spanish chef Jose Lara to command the kitchen. What sets ‘traditional’ Spanish cuisine apart from some of the more modern interpretations found at places like El Willy is the simple, classic, pure approach in both preparation and presentation.
A central bar laid out in a semi-circle dominates the cavernous room dedicated to Bocado, on the second floor of a complex also containing The Apartment, El Coctel and Rhumery Bounty. While the bare walls and stripped down décor gives the room a certain edge, the gentle orange walls, dim lighting and intimate positioning of the tables introduce a certain balance; a warm compromise between candle-lit romanticism and cold industrial architecture.
As promised, the dishes on offer were presented with little fuss about appearance, allowing the diner to focus on the savory aspects of each offering. Entrees like the Croquetas de Setas (RMB43), which upon inspection promised little more than bite-sized potato balls battered in breadcrumbs, transformed into warm, rich and creamy delights; the inescapable taste of truffle intertwined with the soft filling and crunchy exterior associated with the dish. By far the most memorable dish of the night, the Pulpo a la Gallega (RMB65) offered sliced potatoes and octopus, the later so incredibly tender it initially confused suspicious tastebuds. Other recommended dishes would include the soft and flavorful Bacalao Confitado Con Puré de Patatas al Pil-pil y Esparragos (RMB188), a confit codfish served with mashed potatoes and sautéed asparagus and the Mousse de Chocolate, Bizcocho de Aceite de Oliva (RMB32), a thick and rich chocolate mousse distinctly reminiscent of home-made desserts.
In the midst of it all, Charles remains the focal point of this new restaurant, and makes a considerable and hands-on effort to constantly improve service. Throughout the night, you’ll witness him greeting guests at the door, making suggestions and recommendations, checking up on tables and generally getting personally involved with each table, every night. His passion and commitment is obvious, and it has permeated throughout each aspect of his restaurant. While he’s still working on tweaking the finer details, Bocado has the potential, the location and the quality needed to survive in Shanghai’s restaurant industry.
