Bienvenido Bonito!

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by Rosy Meek
on Monday, April 07, 2008 12:00 AM

Bienvenido Bonito! Bonito offers tapas to top all others, and is keeping them as they should be - pre-dinner accompaniment to a good glass of red wine. The price reflects this, with scallops for as little as 28RMB no less. With some of the best Spanish wines at a minimal mark-up price, bottles are mostly under 200RMB really bringing a slice of Spanish sophistication to Shanghai. Six restaurants in Barcelona mark Bonito's owners as seasoned professionals who have been keeping their compatriots happy, and it seems they will do the same here. The patatas bravas were perfectly prepared, crispy edges and fluffy potato in aioli with a hint of spice and dangerously moreish at a mouth-watering 22RMB. The roast asparagus with Serrano ham was another treat, the saltiness of the marbled ham cut by the succulent asparagus 32RMB. Stealing the show was the paella which is the plato principal of any discerning Spanish restaurant worth its salt. This was by far the best to be found in Shanghai with all ingredients beautifully incorporated into the rice and retaining the essential crispy edges, paella pre-requisite 168RMB. Huge chunks of squid, castanet-shaped clams and crisp snap peas are paired with two meaty king prawns. The rice is moist as the saffron is used sparingly stopping it from becoming parching and overbearing. Desserts are also inexpensive with coulant de chocolate, a chocolate fondue with fruits a mere 48RMB. There's also a fantastic cheese board for 88RMB. Bonito is an indulgent evening experience but sandwiches and salads are also available for lunchtime diners. The industrial installations of the loft are cavernous and difficult to individualize but the atmosphere created at Bonito is both relaxing and welcoming. A ceramic bull guards the entrance, cherubs and rose pattern cushions add a subtle Spanish accent and fabulous terrace will no doubt bring in the masses for a summertime tapas fiesta. All that's missing now is the sunshine!