A Hidden Gem

1 Photo

by Raphael Seghin
on Friday, September 09, 2011 12:00 AM

If you were to ask an editor which reviews they preferred to write, they'd probably mention the ones that exceed expectations, and Henry's, located a short cab ride from LuJaiZui, would fit perfectly in that category.

An external wood and glass façade blends into the older brick building, seamlessly combining a new modern dining area with the classy appeal of the original structure. Cozy, with light flooding through the floor-to-ceiling windows, the first floor contain a half-dozen tables. A small spiral staircase leads to the second floor lounge, which should open before the end of the month.

For lunch, Henry's offers an affordable selection of set deals, although their dinner menu is where you'll find the better choices. The Sea bass Ceviche (RMB58) was a tangy and fresh entrée, complete with a generous amount of sweet potatoes, onions, spices and just enough juice. Although the seabass itself was slightly tough, the chef seemed to know the dish's exact limit; where to stop before zesty turned to bitter and before the spices begin to overwhelm the dish. The second entrée, Grilled Pork Ribs with BBQ sauce (RMB48), would give legit BBQ places a run for their money. Velvety strips of pork which come right off the bone smothered in a sweet, thick sauce with a hint of lemon. The main dish, a Seared Black Cod with Herb Butter (RMB128), introduces a fresh, creamy and rich cod atop a buttered mashed potato puree.

Although the collection of dishes on the menu offer such a vast range that they can only be grouped as ‘Western', it is pleasantly surprising to learn that all of the kitchen staff are locally born and bred. The executive chef, Eric, is Shanghainese, and has mastered his craft by working alongside foreign chefs at the Expo. He's obviously made good use of his time. Henry's is a contemporary alternative for those looking to expand their horizons; affordable, comfortable and, most importantly, tasty.