/ Reviews / Spanish
French Concession Snack Attack
by Mary Weeks
on Friday, June 25, 2010 12:00 AM
Ask anyone what they like about tapas and it's likely they'll say it's the social aspect, the pick-and-mix, the "you-can-try-mine-if-I-can-try-yours". It encourages conversation amongst dining companions not interested in isolating themselves behind one large meal. The tapas concept is simple and well known, and most people have an idea as to what they're getting. Which is why recently opened tapas bar Mistral is such a nice surprise.
For a start, there are no flag-adorned, gaudy yellow walls. Instead, what you'll find is informal, intimate and understated. Whitewashed interiors with flickering candles in the alcoves give this converted French Concession villa house a subtly Mediterranean feel and, next to a cosy waiting area with sofa, the gap under the stairs houses a vinyl collection from which patrons can choose the evening's soundtrack; light-hearted, tongue-in-cheek music that will have you whistling while you wait for your fare.
And what fare it is. Head Chef Joaquin Campos has taken his traditional Madrid training and mixed it with international influences. The result is dishes like the Hokkaido clams with asparagus and chick peas (RMB80), a delicious contrast of mild spice, firm meaty clams and cod fish with raspberry aioli (RMB75-140).
More traditional cuisine can also be had, from Spanish omelette (RMB35-65) to the Catalan Escalibada (RMB35-65): sweet, soft bell peppers hugged by a pocket of bitter red lettuce and finished with a sliver of salty anchovy - a wonderful example of Campos' talents in marrying unexpected and surprisingly well-suited flavors.
If you opt not to plonk yourself just inside the doors, additional seating - as well as a private room for eight to twelve people - can be found upstairs, adjacent to the terrace and overlooking the outdoor dining area. This terrace is well suited to unwinding with friends at the end of the day or for more pre-planned get-togethers; the attentive team at Mistral is more than flexible.
The choices on offer are thoughtful and inspired, with new additions created every week. Servings are blink-and-you'll-miss-it small, but they're filling and worth savouring for the presentation as much as the taste. It's slow, social food, meant to be enjoyed with good wine, good company and good surroundings.
The Bottom Line: Tapas fantásticos, mis amigos.
