/ Reviews / Thai
Lemony Fresh
by Tom Lee
on Friday, December 10, 2010 12:00 AM
There's nothing like efficient service in a restaurant to put a diner in a good mood for food. Despite an already steady influx of clientele, Lemon Grass manages to keep a brisk flow of orders coming out of the kitchen without breaking a sweat. Certainly, it's excellent news for the hungry - but more importantly, it's a mercy for those patrons with sensitive buttocks stuck sitting on the angular chairs.
Owner Sky Cheng opened this Thai establishment for the best and simplest of reasons: because he loves Thai food. For the most part, the dishes testify to his words. Pomelo with Shrimps (RMB35) is sprinkled with diced celery and infused with a sour citrus kick, creating a mildly spicy yet cooling munch. Laying on a heftier punch, the Tom Yum Soup (RMB58 for a small portion) racks up the chili factor a little; the serving is a perfect size for two to three people and is filled with ingredients - though perhaps a little less lemon grass and a little more shrimp would bring about greater satisfaction.
Some of the raw materials, like the fish in the Roast Weever with Basil Sauce (RMB78) and the chicken in the Yellow Curry (RMB48), are not of the highest quality - though at this price, it's not exactly a shocking surprise. However, though the savory stew of the Yellow Curry makes up for its poultry's failings, the basil sauce accompanying the weever is, frankly, boring. Shown in a rather unfortunate light when set alongside the multitude of tastes bursting forth from other items, it's a dreary, bland affair.
Diners here shouldn't be afraid to get rough with the dishes. For instance, when ordering the Fried Rice with Fisherman's (RMB48), don't hesitate to brush aside the ghastly fish floss topping to reach the underlying mixture of sweet pineapple and raisin pieces, balanced by cashew nuts and sauce.
Lemon Grass isn't going to win any awards for "most romantic dinner venue"; set out in a simple café style, its mural of a tuk-tuk swerving precariously down a road is the only noticeable design feature - other than the chairs, of course. No, unfortunately it doesn't serve up its food in a heavily perfumed, dimly lit space, and it doesn't have knick knacks jammed into every nook and cranny - oh wait, that actually makes quite a refreshing change.
The Bottom Line: Tasty grub, reasonable prices and, above all, a rare restraint when it comes to tacky bric-a-brac adds up to a well-worthwhile meal.
