/ Reviews / Thai
Adding Eastern Tastes to Western Wagas
by Monica Liau
on Friday, May 21, 2010 12:00 AM
A small fiefdom has been established. If you have walked down the small but rapidly gentrifying AnFu Road, you probably noticed smells of coffee, fresh bread, and maybe a roasted chicken wafting down the way - all courtesy of the two men and one woman who brought Shanghai the revered Wagas. Now John Christensen, one of the partners, plus his wife Michelle Zhou have filled the last space of their complex with something a little less Western. Today, the fragrance of curry intermingles with the kitchens of Baker & Spice, Mr. Willis, La Strada and Amokka.
The space Mi Thai occupies was originally supposed to be rented, but Zhou says they were worried about tenants and finally decided to keep control. The result is an airy space that showcases dark wooden beams, long windows, fresh mint daiquiris (RMB55) and self-proclaimed "modern Thai" cuisine.
What Mi Thai wants to offer is sophisticated takes on traditional Thai food, and the couple spent months eating their way through Thailand to create the menu. The Snapper Tartare (RMB68) is a playful dish: fresh chunks of fish are served in a salad of pineapple, lime, cilantro and onion. The delicate and lacy rice cakes alongside are a beautiful match. Bean Curd Wrapped Shrimp (RMB58) is also masterfully done, gently fried so that none of the shrimp's sweetness is lost. Innovation is on the wane with the Fish Cakes (RMB48) and Beef Spring Rolls (RMB38), which are tasty but pretty standard. Same goes for the Beef Salad (RMB68), a healthy mix of high-quality ingredients, but heavy on the fish sauce.
Mains are a little more entertaining. The roast duck curry (RMB65) is seductive, a mix of yellow coconut curry studded with eggplant, baby corn and other vegetables. The moist and succulent skin-on chunks of duck add a sophisticated edge to the dish, raising it above its subtle curry broth. The Pan-fried Snapper with Tom Yum Sauce and Crispy Ginger (RMB118) offers less depth; the fish is crispy and well cooked but the bright red tom yum sauce is too heavy on the sour tamarind.
Don't skip dessert (RMB38-48) at Mi Thai. The coconut cheesecake's creamy, light and tropical medley - augmented with fried bananas and copious scoops of ice cream - is a worthwhile indulgence.
The Bottom Line: Exotic drinks and excellent curry puts Mi Thai a step ahead of the pack.
