/ Reviews / Thai
Naam Thai
by Rosy Meek
on Monday, March 17, 2008 12:00 AM
Naam Thai exhibits class from the inside out. Subtle texturing, dashes of fresh green, and pine paneling have mingled to create a homely ambience in an otherwise minimalist dining space. A stone Buddha takes pride of place, sitting inside an alcove-wall that divides the restaurant in two. One side has a café feel with smaller tables and wicker seating. The other, home to a long banquet table and two Japanese-style booths, has a sense of conviviality much like a bistro. Jazzy lounge music is played to great effect; putting diners at their ease and also giving dining at Naam Thai a sense of occasion. Naam Thai is owned by Walter Zahner, of the acclaimed T8 restaurant in Xiantiandi. The connection is reflected in the restaurant's name: Naam meaning water, is Walter's pseudonym from his years spent in Thailand.
For those thinking 'what's in a naam', the menu appears to give little detail of ingredients, in fact, those listed are the ingredients. This minimal use of flavours renders the dishes understated. In an attempt to showcase their authenticity, Naam Thai has inadvertently created a menu that seems lacking in substance. The emerald chicken curry with eggplant and kaffir leaves does have a subtle kick, its accompaniment, a traditional rotî or pancake, is skillfully both fluffy and crispy but a bowl of rice would have served better. A creamier alternative is the lamb massamam curry with potatoes and shallots. Both curries are under 70¥. The 'hot' and 'sour' Tom Yam soup matches its description perfectly and meaty prawns add texture. The water chestnut and coconut custard cones dessert is light and pleasing. Thai fusion and' fuss-free quick' dishes add to the menu's appeal. For the health conscious, Naam Thai is MSG and smoke free. There is also a variety of vegetarian options. Innovative drinks include Organic wine and fresh Pandan Juice; and between you and me, Walter serves up a killer Street Hawker Martini.








