/ Reviews / Turkish
Turkish Delights
by Ruth Waldron
on Friday, November 26, 2010 12:00 AM
Walking along HuaiHai Road, you can't miss the location of recently opened Melekler Sarayi restaurant: it's the brightest and most elaborate façade on the road. The building features classic Arab-style motifs, such as intricately carved arches and stained glass that would not look out of place in Istanbul or Dubai - and the exuberant style is not reserved just for the façade.
Melekler Sarayi is run and owned by Mr Di and his family, who hail from Urumqi in Xinjiang Province. Down on the first floor is a menu of Xinjiang dishes and barbecue, while up on the second floor is a Turkish harem of food, filled with saucy cuisine from the Bosporus.
Striding up the stairs to the dining room on the second floor, you can't help but emit a gasp of shock. Shiny, metallic blue vinyl coats the floors, set alongside walls given over, almost entirely, to sparkling gold paint.
Every available surface is encrusted in sequins, crystals and gilt, like something straight out of an Arabian fairy tale.
All that shimmering brilliance should not distract you (even though it will try) from the menu prepared by their native Turkish chef. It's a buffet affair that's open every evening and for a mere RMB100 you can fill your plate as often as you like. The selection includes marinated chicken, lamb rolls, char-grilled peppers stuffed with beef, a wide range of salads, and sweets and fruit.
The a la carte menu is well suited to sharing with friends, especially the platter of mixed kebabs (RMB150), which is laden with a selection of succulent barbecued meats and thin pita bread. Marinated and charred chicken, beef and lamb with rice is prepared with lots of very tasty seasonings and herbs: it's enough to easily satisfy three hungry men. There is nothing meager about any of the portions, including the shrimps, which are mixed into a giant prawn cocktail (RMB30) - a great switch of flavor after the kebabs.
Food is prepared in the Muslim tradition, which also means that the menu does not offer any alcohol. The typical liquid accompaniment is Turkish yogurt. Fresh but bitter, it may come as a letdown for the beer-swilling barbecue lovers.
There won't be much room left for dessert but the home-made ice-cream is worth a try. Cool and creamy, it's a sweet antidote to all the strong-arming spice.
The Bottom Line: Glittery, shiny and authentically Turkish.
